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Gory Fanskie (Tajikistan) - III. díl

25.January 2013
Velikost písma: A A A Tisk Autor: radek hess
... po treku ve Fanských horách jsme zbylý čas věnovali návštěvám historických měst věhlasné Hedvábné stezky - Penjikent a Samarkand.
Hlavní foto článku

26.7. (Cesta do města) Dima, jak se jmenuje náš nový tajický přítel, nás ráno s osli doprovází k silnici. U odbočky k vesnici Boru, kde žije, nás opouští s tím, že se nám pokusí sehnat odvoz. Po hodině marného čekání pokračujeme pěšky dál. Podél silnice jsou sady s meruňkami.

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meruňkové koláže

Očesané meruňky si schnou jen tak na slunci v kolážích odstínů oranže. Po 4 km docházíme na okraj vesnice Gaza. Zatímco my, rusky nemluvící sedíme ve stínu, hoši se snaží ve vsi sehnat vůz. To se jim po hodinovém dohadování a tradičním posezení v jedné z místních domácností daří. S překvapivým výrazem a lehkým úsměvem pak nasedáme v sedmi lidech s šesti krosnami do 3-dvéřové Lady Nivy pro čtyři. Cenu se už ani nesnažíme usmlouvat. Za 180 somoni míříme do Penjikentu.

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běžný dopravní prostředek pro sedm lidí

Po 45 minutách, kdy nám všem nohy pěkně zdřevěněly a vlasy zšedly prachem z cesty, nám řidič oznamuje, že dál nejede. Komedie sehraná v Gaze, kde jsme v hlavní roli za hlupáky, začíná gradovat v okamžiku, kdy se nám podařilo zablokovat ostře debatujícím hloučkem hlavní silnici. Nenecháváme si máslo na hlavě a tvrdě se dožadujeme po mládenci a vlastně všech seběhnuvších se posluchačů i diskutérů odvozu do slíbeného cíle. Nakonec chca nechca mládenec nasedá a odváží nás o 20km dál na stanoviště taxi, kde nám shání jiný odvoz. Řidič nového taxi cestou sesílá na mladíka všechny čerty za to, že ho obral. V Penjikentu jsme kolem páté odpoledne. Ač víme o strádání s vodou v hotelu Penjikent, ubytováváme se právě zde za 30TJS na hlavu. Voda teče jen když je majitel podplacen, u postele mrtvý šváb a záchod nesplachuje. Turistický hotel už je dávno za zenitem. Přesto z úplatků stihl postavit vedle hotelu parádní dřevěný čajchan.

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luxusní čajchan hned vedle hotelu

Dáváme si sprchu a odchod do města. Večeře v restauraci pod mešitou zapíjíme pivem bez pěny. Cestou zpět na hotel kupujeme melouna a vodku. Spánek pak není zas tak zlý.

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večeře s opravdovým pivem

27.7. (Penjikent) V 7 ráno po nutné sprše odcházíme na bazar. Snídaně v bistru – pirožek a čaj. Na bazaru kupujeme místní čínský čaj, zeleninu a vodu.

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portál do bazaru v Penjikentu

Potkáváme se tu s průvodcem od Mutných jezer. Jede nakoupit zásoby pro nové klienty z Francie. Vedle v čajchanu patřícím jeho synovi se osvěžujeme melounem a další konvičkou čaje. Za doprovodu aktivního mladíka, evidentně si trénujícího angličtinu, procházíme okrajovými částmi města až ke starému městu. Z toho zbyly jen díry v zemi na kopečku. Vracíme se do centra. S Petrou zůstáváme v kavárně na hlavní třídě, zatímco ostatní jdou sehnat taxi k přesunu do Khojendu.

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Orient je cítit na každém kroku

Po dvou hodinách mají auto za 80 na hlavu. Po návratu na hotel neteče voda. Majitel nás chce mít u sebe v čajchanu a vytáhnout z nás poslední prachy. Kašleme na něj, je to píčus. Po dvou hodinách všemožných slibů a přemlouvání ze strany hoteliéra a nervózních scén ze strany naší, vodu pustil. Rychle se sprchujeme a mizíme ve tmě. Od šéfky turistické kanceláře dostáváme tip na večeři v restauraci Obod dole u řeky. Posezení je na ohromné posteli a večeře se skládá ze tří chodů. Padnou i nějaký pívka a víno. Odcházíme s nacpanýma pupkama a poštípáni od komárů. V jedenáct jsme v posteli.

28.7. (Přesun) Ve dvě ráno se budím a všechno co jsem do sebe nacpal zvracím do záchoda. Záchod nesplachuje, vodaopět neteče. Po marných pokusech s kapající vodou z kohoutku utěsňuji dveře do koupelny a jdu spát. Do rána už ale nespím a bojuji se zimnicí. V 7 hodin se v mrákotách sesouvám na sedačku auta a v polospánku trávím dalších 6 hodin přejezdem do Khojendu. Tam už je mi lépe. Rtuť teploměru nemilosrdně stoupá nad hranici 40°C. Za 80TJS bereme auto na hranice. Pančo stahuje řidiče o CD s orientálním disco a loučíme se. Na tajických hranicích nám voják-záklaďák krájí melouna s úsměvem a na uzbeckých bez úsměvu rentgenují batohy a ve vedlejší komůrce i příruční pouzdra a peněženky. Typická ukázka vyostřených vztahů mezi sousedy. Pančovi vytahují z krosny 8-mi kilovej kámen, kterej veze ženě na skalku. Táhne ho sebou už z bivaku pod sedlem Chimtargy. Sehrané překvapení zabírá a kámen putuje zpět s poplácáním a slovy „Ty, Rambo!“. Taxikem za 20 USD jedeme z Oybeku do Tashkentu až před hotel Chosilot. Za 7 dolarů spíme ve třílůžkovém pokoji se společnou sprchou a WC na chodbě. Navečer vyrážíme na vlakové nádraží zjistit odjezd vlaku do Samarkandu a možnost úschovy batohů, jelikož na hotel se už vracet nebudeme. U taxikáře měníme v kurzu 2250UZS dolary. Z výměny má až infantilní radost, čehož využíváme a cestu zpět do hotelu mu neplatíme.

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3/4 milionu – jsme boháči :)

Na hotelu pak dlouho přerozdělujeme nakoupený 3/4 milion v bankovkách na šest hromádek.

29.7. (Samarkand) Od hotelu jezdí k vlakáči autobus č.40, teda pokud ještě busem někdo jezdí, jakmile je linka nevytížená, řidič se nenamáhá ani nastartovat. Za 600UZS si kupujeme každý jízdenku na severní vlakové nádraží Samarkand. Z Čech jsme zvyklý chodit na poslední chvíli, což tady neriskujeme a tak jsme již půl hodiny před odjezdem ve frontě na jízdenky. Ušetřenou půlhodinu pak trvá zabržděné slečně ve výdejně zapsat vše potřebné a vydat jízdenky, takže jen co se za mnou zabouchnou dveře vlaku, vlak se rozjíždí. Z představy, že strávíme v Samarkandu krásných 7 hodin po památkách, nás probírá děžurnaja. Oznamuje, že trať právě prochází rekonstrukcí a že třeba včera přijeli do Samarkandu až po poledni. Novinku jdeme spláchnout do jídelního vozu. Vlak má nakonec „jenom“ 5 hodin zpoždění. Prohlídka památek se tak smrskla na dvě hodiny. Vracíme jízdenky s tím, že zpátky pojedeme taxikem. Dráhy nám vrací 100%. Z nádraží se necháváme odvézt k Registanu.

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Registan s podiem (až doma se dovídáme, že zde po nás vystoupila i česká folklórní skupina Čtyřlístek)

U zadního vchodu platíme úplatu vojákovi a ten nás pouští nakonec i do mešity. Z ostatních památek jsme neviděli nic kromě střech z vrcholu mešity.

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Registan

Odvoz je domluven na šestou. Jedeme dvěma auty a na nádraží v Tashkentu jsme v půl dvanácté. Vlak (náš zpáteční) ze Samarkandu přijel na druhou kolej (opět zpožděn o 5 hodin). Z úschovny vyzvedáváme krosny a rychle mažeme dalším autem na letiště. V jednu ráno jsme odbaveni. Zbývá koupit dary, odbavit a odletět.

30.7. (Zpět v Evropě) Po příletu do Rigy nám celníci zabavují veškerý alkohol, který jsme si zakoupili v Dutyfree na letišti v Tashkentu. Jen neradi se loučíme se 40 letou whisky a s uzbeckou vodkou. Jinak se během letu nic „zvláštního“ nestalo. Cestou z Vídně zastavujeme ve Znojmě a jdeme obveselit chuťové pohárky po jejich 14-ti denním strádání.

Zpáteční letenky do Tashketu jsme kupovali čtvrt roku dopředu u Baltica Airlines tam a přes Pelikána zpět, celkem za 10,5 tis. Koupit je o další tři měsíce dříve vyjdou kolem 9tis. Pozor u Pelikána při rezervaci na poplatek za bagáž – platili jsme jej až v Tashkentu při odbavení. Jídlo a pití je na palubě zpoplatněné, přeci jen je to nízkonákladovka. Váhové limity jsou 20kg + 8kg příruční. Jsou i jiné letecké společnosti, ale v době nákupu letenek byly z cenou min. o 5tis výš. Víza jsme vyřizovali, jako ostatně všechno ostatní, sami ve Vídni. Je potřeba dvojí cesty, neboť víza vystavují min. po třech dnech. Návštěvu ambasády je lepší si předem telefonicky domluvit. Stejně tak ceny. Do Uzbekistánu je potřeba pouze tranzitní vízum (pokud toužíte po Fankách) – my měli na 72 hodin se dvěma vstupy za 60 eur na osobu. Do Tajikistánu jsme vyřizovali turistické do 30 dnů, cena byla stejná. Aktuální informace jsme kromě telefonátů získávali na stránkách ambasád, ing. Slavomíra Horáka a v cestopisech. Nebylo třeba žádných pozvání ani jiných povolení, pouze jsme sesmolili jakýsi Letter of request, kde jsme popsali kolik nás je, kam jedeme, na jak dlouho a za jakým účelem. No a samozřejmě Visa application form – ten je ke stažení na webu. Jídlo se dá téměř vše sehnat na bazarech. Doporučuji smlouvat všude a za všechno. Reálná cena se pohybuje zhruba na 50%.

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