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Maroko – Marrakesh a výstup na Jebel Toubkal

25.November 2019
Velikost písma: A A A Tisk Autor: Tomáš Javorský
Reportáž ze zájezdu s cestovní kanceláří FRČÍME do Vysokého Atlasu s výstupem na jeho nejvyšší horu Jebel Toubkal. Nechyběla ani návštěva krásného královského města Marrakech.
Hlavní foto článku
Vrchol Jebel Toubkal - foto Tomáš Javorský

Slnko na nás pálilo. Každý aj tí, čo mali na sebe opaľovací krém cítili jeho silu, ktorá bola intenzívnejšia o to, že sme sa nachádzali vo výške štyroch kilometrov nad hladinou mora. Vietor dávno ustál a teplota sa držala na príjemných 10 stupňoch. Počas posledných pár metrov na vrchol ideálne podmienky. Ako sme sa tam dostali? Celé to začalo pár dní dozadu na letisku vo Viedni. Tam nás vysadili z dvoch dodávok, rozdali nám letenky a už to bolo len na nás. Teda na mne a mojich 12 klientoch, ktorých som sa vydal sprevádzať na najvyššiu horu Maroka – Jbel Toubkal. Presun do Hlavného mesta Maroka prebehol bez problémov. Po náročnej noci (ktorú sme strávili prepravou do Viedne), každý ocenil chvíľu pokoja v lietadle spánkom, alebo dobre vychladeným pohárom šampanského. Po príchode do mesta Marrakesh sme sa zdržali výmenou peňazí, a vybrali sa mini-busom do dediny Imlil (1900 m. n. m.). Tam nás v hoteli, pohostili čajom, a my sme sa zatiaľ ubytovali. Ďalším bodom programu bola prechádzka z mesta Imlil do Aroumd. Túto prechádzku som doplnil krátkym teoretickým blokom o adaptáciách človeka na hypoxické prostredie (prostredie s nedostatkom kyslíka) a definovaním akútnej výškovej choroby. Po návrate sa hotelom šírila vôňa zmesi 30. korení, ktoré sa používajú v príprave tradičného Marockého jedla – Tajinu (čítaj Tažínu). Tajin je typicky marocké jedlo, ktoré je ako mnoho iných jedál (napr. tanjia) v Maroku pomenované podľa nádoby v ktorej sa varí. To bola naša výborná večera. Opisy jedál by mohli v mojom prípade byť 2-stránkové, no aby som to skrátil: Mali sme polievku, tajine a nakoniec dezert pozostávajúci z jogurtu a rôznych druhov ovocia. Po večeri sa každý vybral oddychovať a načerpať sily pred nasledujúcim dňom.

Po výdatných raňajkách o ktoré sa nám postaral hotel, nás čakala dlhá ceste na Refugio Toubkal. Refugio Toubkal je jednou z dvoch horských chát, ktoré sa nachádzajú pod masívom rovnomennej hory a patrí pod správu francúzskeho alpinistického klubu v Cassablanke. Predtým, než sme sa vydali na trek, sa do našej skupiny pripojil ďalší člen. Marocký horský vodca Rashid. V decembri 2018 sa v Maroku stala tragédia, ktorá otriasla celým svetom. V tunajších horách prišli o život násilným spôsobom dve zahraničné turistky. To zaskočilo každého. Najviac asi samotné Maroko. Dlhodobý plán tejto krajiny je rozvíjať turizmus a ich cieľom do budúcna je, aby 20% hrubého domáceho produktu bolo tvoreného turizmom. Preto sa vláda snaží urobiť čo najpriaznivejšie podmienky pre rozvoj cestovného ruchu a táto udalosť ich plány narušila. A tak sa od r. 2019 vláda rozhodla zaviesť povinnosť marockého sprievodcu v horách. Táto povinnosť je kontrolovaná na 3 kontrolných miestach. Na začiatku treku, v dedine Chamarouch a približne hodinu pred dvomi horskými chatami. Tento krok (zavedenie povinnosti marockého sprievodcu) má dva dôvody. Po prvé (za ktorý sa stavia marocká vláda), je že zvyšuje bezpečnosť v oblasti hory Toubkal a druhý význam je trocha menej prozaický, zato viac pragmatický, a to že zvyšuje hrubý domáci produkt v oblasti tvorený turizmom. A tak bol od chvíle čo sme opustili hotel s nami horský vodca Rashid. No musím povedať, že bol skvelý. S čímkoľvek sme potrebovali pomôcť, pomohol. Čokoľvek sme potrebovali vybaviť, vybavil. Po ceste nám hovoril o zaujímavých miestach, a tak nám cesta ubehla rýchlo. Rýchlo a takmer bez nehody. Po ceste okolo nás chodilo veľa západných turistov, veľa lokálnych ľudí a nespočetne veľa oslov (súhrnné pomenovanie pre osly, somáre a muly). Jedna klientka s jedným z tých oslíkov mala stret. Sprvu to vyzeralo nepríjemne. Stalo sa to v blízkosti kontrolného bodu takže lokálny úradníci a lekárska pomoc (keďže jedna z klientok pracuje v ordinácii) boli na mieste rýchlejšie ako v Prahe na Karláku. Naštastie sa nejednalo o nič vážne, no ako kompenzáciu od oslíkara dostala klientka možnosť sa povoziť od miesta nehody až k chate na oslovi. Tam sme sa všetci ubytovali, dali si večeru a vybrali sa do postele pred ďalším dňom, ktorý mal byť náročný. Na vrcholovom dni je najťažšie ranné vstávanie. Normálne pri výstupe na vrchol sa vstáva o 2–3 ráno, aby sa v maximálnej možnej miere eliminovalo objektívne nebezpečenstvo. To však na hore Toubkal našťastie nie je. Nehrozia lavíny, s pribúdajúcim slnkom sa podmienky na ľadovci nemenia (keďže tam žiadny nie je) a výstup prebieha po skalách. S trochou nadhľadu by sa to dalo prirovnať k výstupu na Rysy vo Vysokých Tatrách (jediný rozdiel je v nadmorskej výške, ktorá sa pohybuje od 3300 do 4163 m. n. m.). A tak našťastie, žiadne skoré ranné vstávanie nebolo, a od chaty sme vyrážali za svetla čeloviek a prvého ranného brieždenia o 7:15. Dostať sa na vrchol nám trvalo 4 hodiny. Aj napriek tomu, že celkové prevýšenie je len 900 m, vzhľadom na nadmorskú výšku bolo naše tempo pomalšie ako na hladine mora. Na vrchol hory Jbel Toubkal sme prišli o 12:10. Na streche Maroka a Severnej Afriky sme boli úplne sami. A tak si tam každý mohol spraviiť tú svoju, vrcholovú fotku. Užili sme si výstup a rozhodli sa rozdeliť na dve skupinky. Prvá sa vybrala s Rashidom dole k chate a s tou druhou som išiel ja na vrchol západného Toubkalu. Tento vrchol je o približne 100 výškových metrov nižší, ale výstupová cesta naň je o niečo náročnejšia. To pre nás nebol žiadny problém, a tak sme sa tam zanedlho dostali. A už nás čakal len zostup dole, ktorý sa zdal byť nekonečný. Ale aj ten raz skončil, a tak sme znova boli po 10 hodinách na chate kde nás čakala večera a výdatný spánok po náročnom dni.
Presun ďalší deň sa zaobišiel bez zbytočných komplikácii. Celý prebiehal veľmi rýchlo. Možno aj preto sme sa rozhodli si ho spestriť kúpaním sa v potoku pod dedinou Sidi Chamarouch. Voda bola studená. Ako by povedal klasik, mala približne 3 centimentre. Časť, ktorú táto výhodná ponuka schladenia sa v horskom potoku nezaujala, pokračovala v sprievode Rashida do najbližšieho miesta s pomarančovým džúsom. Tí odvážnejší sa tam celí ponorili a následne sme dobehli prvú skupinu. Ďalej, krok za krokom, sme sa dostali do dediny Aroumd, kde nám Rashid každému ponúkol jablko z jeho záhradky, a potom k miestu z ktorého sme začali. Hotelu „Lodge Imlil“.Tam sme sa rozlúčili z Rashidom a vydali sa na cestu do mesta Marrakesh. Vymeniť pokoj v horách za ruch veľkomesta nie je jednoduché. O to viac ak je tým veľkomestom Marrakesh. Marrakesh je jedným zo štyroch kráľovských miest v Maroku. Ostatné sú Fez, Rabat a Cassablanca. Marrakesh však drží prvenstvo. Za doby existencie krajiny, bol najdlhšie mestom, kde sa zdržiavala vládnuca dynastia. V tomto meste sme strávili dohromady približne 40 hodín. Na tak veľké mesto, s toľkými pamiatkami to nie je dostatok času. Po príchode pamiatky museli počkať. Prv sme oslávili výstup poriadnym jedlom. V zvyšnom čase sme navštívili palác Bahia, záhrady Majorelle a samozrejme sme mali čas na rozchod. Počas toho si každý mohol nakúpiť suveníry a spomienkové predmety. Veď určite budeme mať načo spomínať. Tých 6 dní ubehlo rýchlo, no v každom z nás zanechali množstvo spomienok..

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