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Gory Fanskie (Tajikistan) - I. díl

15.December 2012
Velikost písma: A A A Tisk Autor: radek hess
Přípravy od počátku roku vyvrcholily. Všechno to zařizování - vísa, letenky, doprava přes hory, nákupy a tuny a tuny informací ze všech možných i nemožných koutů internetu - to všechno jednou muselo skončit. A tyto martyria kolem přípravy treku ve Fankách skončila právě ve chvíli, kdy jsme vystoupili z vlaku na letišti ve Vídni a nechali se odbavit. Nádhera. 14 dní mezi 5-ti tisícovkami před námi. A aby hlava nezapomněla, píšu si deník, stručný deník.
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PÁ 15.7. (Petra má narozeniny)
Budíček Emilem ve 4:45, je to rebel. V 6,00 načas na Benzině u Humpolce, snídaně a pak odjezd přes Znojmo do Vídně. Tam (dle informací Milana /=navigace – pozn. autora/) máme být v 9:16, což taky jsme. Letadlo letí ve 13:25. Téměř načas se zvedáme z ranveje, abychom po dvou hodinách dosedli v Rize. Tady si přičítáme první hodinu posunu. Odlet z Rigy hlásá obrazovka v 18:35 (poslední čas, který jsem schopen si zapamatovat). Batohy sledujeme z prosklené haly jak putují do vozíku č.14 a z něj pak mizí v útrobách Boeingu, našeho? Snad jo. Jestli nám zvorají letadlo, víme alespoň kde. Nejbližší letištní obchůdek se suvenýry bereme útokem a nakupujem litrové plechovky piva Aldaris. V prospektu Air Baltica píšou, že je vyrobeno z českého chmele. Po 2 kusech načínáme ještě lahev vína. Návštěva toalet. 1 SMS domů. A zase do letadla, řada 8, sedadlo D. Přistavený bus nás převeze luxusní otočkou o průměru délky vozu přes silnici, zacož si, ani ne tak řidič jako letištní personál, vysloužil obdivný potlesk. Naše lajna má zaslepený okénko. Další pivo a už ji cejtím.

Menší potíž přichází z našimi sousedy poláky – neustálé hlučení, hra na škatulata, batolata hejbete se, se mnou taky pěkně hejbe. Zezadu pro změnu neutichající dítko pláče a pláče, otec s ním v náručí chodí uličkou sem a tam. Po dvou hodinách jsem napěněnej jak Aldaris vypadlý z automatu. Vše utichá až s vypnutím motorů v Tashkentu. Petra už narozeniny nemá. Přičítáme zbývající 3 hodiny.

SO 16.7. (Přesun)
Taxi, taxi … uzbeci nás tímto vítají, sotva jsme vypadli z příletové haly. A hned nás tahají od žigula přes moskvič do místních Daewoo. Rusky neumím – což je v těchto zemích silný nedostatek – takže celé tohle postrkávání a dohadování bere za svoje Pančo se Zděndou. Poučeni z průvodce bereme taxi až za hlavním parkovištěm, skoro až na silnici. V areálu letiště jsou ceny až 4× vyšší. Jedeme za 2 dolary před Qoylik Bozor v blízkosti Ferghana highway. Výměna dolarů s taxikáři v kurzu 1USD=2000UZS (oficiální kurz je kolem 1700UZS). Přebalujem krosny a před svítáním sledujeme na bazaru v tento čas slušný šrumec. Není problém třeba narvat půlku krávy do kufru luxusní limuzíny nebo na ruční dvoukolce přivézt chleba v pyramidě, za kterou by se nestyděl ani Tutanchámon. Po skupinkách chodíme na obchůzky a dokupujeme potraviny a vodu.

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Qoylok bazar

Po snídani jdeme domluvit odvoz na hraniční přechod Oybek. Bus sice jede, ale řidič taxíku nás přesvědčuje o opaku. Nakonec k němu sedáme a za 50 babek nás odváží dvěma auty na hranice. Loni na podzim zavřeli uzbeci přechod Djartepo mezi Samarkandem a Penjikentem a podle místních se vůbec neví, kdy ho opět otevřou. Nikoho prý nepouštějí, ani místní. Příbuzenstvo tak musí cestovat kolem 700km, aby se mohli navštívit. Kdyby tak viděl Stalin jakou čáru přes rozpočet místním provedl. Oybekem procházíme ve 40° vedru se skupinami místních trhovců. Nesmyslná kontrolní stanoviště nám zabrali celou hodinu. Na tajické straně barikády bereme taxi a za usmlouvaných 40$ jedeme do Khojendu, na největší místní Panjanbe bozor. Marně se snažíme sehnat kartuše s plynem a najít stanoviště maršrutek, které jezdí naším směrem, tedy do Dushanbe a Penjikentu.

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Náměstí v Khojandu

Ve směnárně měníme doláče na místní somoni v oficiálním kurzu (1$=4,8TJS). Po občerstvení a pokecu s místním stánkařem u šašlikárny naskakujem do maršrutky č.33 a za pokřiku místních taxi-nahaněčů směřujeme na Avtovakzal.

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Místní jsou přátelští

Opět nás zavalí hlouček taxikářů a nasazují cenu na 200TJS za hlavu do kempu Artuč ve Fankách. Na námi nabízených 100TJS mávají rukou. My máme čas. Nikam nespěcháme a na radu místní prodavačky bilietů snižujeme na 80TJS za hlavu a batoh. Řidiči s gestem prstu u čela odcházejí. Sedíme na lavičce a pijeme cholodnoje pivo. Ještě jedno a pak se zcela bokem přišoural řidič a za těch 80 na hlavu nás všechny naskládal do SangYongu. Dalších 6 hodin trávíme v tomhle korejským teréňáčku pro čtyři lidi. Nás je sice šest plus řidič, ale statečně se v kufru střídáme na dvou provizorních bedýnkových sedátkách. Silnici je zprvu krásně asfaltová, jakmile se ale přiblížíme k horám, asfalt končí. Po prašné horské dvouproudovce bez jakýchkoli silničních pravidel přejíždíme horské sedlo do údolí Zeravshan. Pod „silnicí“ občas zahlédneme vraky aut. Za poslední zimu jich prý spadlo k padesáti. Snažím se to prospat. To se občas i daří. Řidič nás po domluvě odváží přímo do kempu. Za bezpečnou a rychlou jízdu připlácíme sami od sebe každý ještě 10TJS. Za spaní platíme 2$, za sprchu 6TJS. K večeři něco málo ze svých zásob a pak už báječný skopový vývar, pár piv a půlku melouna u místních. Po téhle kombinaci usínám jak mimino.

NE 17.7. (Kulikalonská jezera)
Spánek byl výživný. V průběhu dopoledne pomalu balíme a dopoledne odcházíme ke Kulikalonským jezerům. Nabídku 10$ za oslíka odmítáme.

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Místní dopravce

Vedro se ve výšce nad 2000mnm snáší lépe. U jezer jsme po 3 hodinách, výstup morénou nám ale dává zabrat. První den se musíme šetřit. Po cestě trénuju ruský přízvuk: „Děvóčka, ty počekáj, já budu fotografírovať těbjá“, „Huráá!“, holka rozumí alespoň posunku a zná fotoaparát. A já mám tak ve sbírce červenou Karkulku.

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Karkulka

U jezera následuje opláchnutí od všudepřítomného prachu. Rádi bychom zůstali přes noc, ale hrotím situaci kvůli plynovým kartuším objednaným u Alexe v kempu Alaudin, které musíme dnes vyzvednout. Rozdělujeme se na dvě party. Rychlejší se pokusí ještě dnes delší cestou přes sedlo Laudan dojít do kempu. My pomalejší to zkusíme kratší přes sedlo Alaudin. Vyčerpaní to balíme ještě pod sedlem a bivakujem ve výšce 3200m s výhledem na masiv Mirali.

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Mirali

Rychlejší dojdou ještě za sedlo a bivakují taky. Večer mi nad hlavou zakroužili dva orli (no možná to byli kondoři anebo kdo ví?). Petra hází jednu šavli za druhou. Já řvu ze spaní až mě to probudilo. Převýšení 1km za jeden první den si vybírá své.

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V hledáčku dravec

PO 18.7. (jezero Alaudin)
Budíme se a hned balíme. S Petrou jdeme pro vodu. Vlevo asi 200m od cesty do Alaudinského sedla se zdá být koryto potoka. Místy je vyschlé, ale výše už lze v pohodě nabrat do PETek vodu. Pasuji svůj nový 20l UltraSillDayPack do funkce PETkonoš, je totiž ideální pro přenos přesně 6ks 1,5l lahví. Po snídani dupeme do sedla. 3700mnm – nádhera. Pod námi jezera z obou stran a nad nimi hlídkují nejvyšší místní kopečky. Jen Chimtarga se prozatím schovává. Snažím se zorientovat v protějších masivech. Hlavně mě zajímá Zamok, který máme jako aklimatizační. Mám na to celý sestup k jezeru. Naše rychlejší dvojice i s kartušema už lebedí na břehu u čajchanu. Ihned vaříme instantní nudle s červenou omáčkou.

Půldruhého dne jsme neměli nic teplýho v našich rozmazlených evropských pupcích. Zazdíváme to jedním pivkem. Od čechů, které tu potkáváme, jsme dostali nějaké tipy jako kde spát, kam, kudy a z čím jít na vrcholy. Taky se dozvídáme, že tak málo sněhu na vrcholcích tu téměř nemá pamětníka. Tuším problémy. Místo na spaní vybíráme až nad jezerem cca 2800m n. m. Nádherný zatravněný palouček s výhledem na jezero. Vodu bereme pouze z přítoku jezera napravo.

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Odpolední siesta

Okolní svahy jsou plné ovcí a koz a hvízdajících a pokřikujících pasáčků. K večeru spadlo asi 6 kapek, opravdu jen šest. Okolní vrcholy jsou v mracích. Vaříme mnoho litrů čaje, abychom doplnili tekutiny. K mému úžasu nad množstvím vypitého čaje usínám.

ÚT 19.7. (Mutné jezero – náš BC)
Ráno nikam nespěcháme. Jen co žiarka vystrčí první paprsek přes obzor nedá se ve stanu dlouho vyléhávat. Nad snídaní probíráme další postup. Po snídani jsme na nohou, batohy na zádech. Dneska váží snad tunu. K Mutnému jezeru je to kolem 700m převýšení a to rozhodně není zadarmo. Funíme, odpočíváme, funíme, odpočíváme. Se sluncem nad hlavou zabíráme zastrčené místo vpravo u jezera a rozbalujeme na příští čtyři noci BC.

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BC u Mutných jezer

Koupačka. Vodu z jezera si netroufáme ani převařit. Opět ji bereme z přítoku. Výhled je na hřeben táhnoucí se k Pik Energii, severní stěnu Chimtargy a přilehlý ledovec.

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Výhled na hřeben k Pik Energia

Dnes už nic nepodnikáme. Upravujeme tábořiště – stavíme kuchyňské zákoutí a kamenné lednice. Prý zde obývá příbuzná naší Lišky od Vykotlaného dubu, Liška od Vykotlaného jalovce, která by řezníka Špejlíka vyžrala během jediného mrknutí oka. Slunce nám mizí za Chimtargou v 6 odpoledne. Rázem je z trenýrkové teploty, teplota Jégrova. V 8 uleháme. Zítra ve 3 táhnem na Zamok. Pro tento okamžik jsem spustil časoměr.

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S místními smlouvat, smlouvat, smlouvat … neznám lepší způsob jak se s nimi pobavit :)

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poppy
před 3 lety

Teda, tento výlet, túra vypadá úplně skvěle. To Vám dost závidím. Jednou jsem byla na přechodu hor v Kyrgyzstánu, byli jsme bez guida a jednou jsme se dokonce ztratili a museli jsme se vracet asi 7 km. Člověk si řekne, že 7 km je v pohodě ale v horách nic moc. Naštěstí mě zachránila Maca https://eshop.guaranaplus.cz/maca .

SHEBEE..
před 12 lety

dobřeTy :).. asi to byli orli..

SHEBEE..
před 12 lety

dobřeTy :).. asi to byli orli..

 
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