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Gory Fanskie (Tajikistan) - II. díl

1.January 2013
Velikost písma: A A A Tisk Autor: radek hess
... pokračování deníku z treku po severozápadní části pohoří Pamiro-Alaje v Tajikistánu - Fanských horách.
Hlavní foto článku

20.7. (aklimatizace)
Telefon mi začíná vibrovat pod hlavou ve 2:30. Pomalu se soukáme ze spacáků a za půl hodiny už jsme v kompletní sestavě s měsícem nad hlavou na pěšině směřující do boční kotliny pod ledovec Zamku.

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Zamok

K nástupu na „nejjednodušší“ pětitisícovku (5020mnm) musíme sestoupit zpět včerejší stezkou. Obtížnost je dle ruské stupnice 2A. Když jsme včera vystupovali k BC, všimli jsme si odbočky doleva, která vedla do ohromného suťoviště. Vede po jeho levé straně (při pohledu vzhůry) na hraně morény. Čtenář znalý Fanek by se měl teď ohradit, že přístupovka k ledovci začíná na pravé straně doliny. A má pravdu!

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zleva Pik Energia a Chimtarga

My zatím nevědomky stoupáme k Zamku z druhé strany. Klopýtáme tedy v omylu „kamenolomem“ až do 4tis., tady se otáčí Petra s Pavlem a vrací se zpět do BC. Výška už jim dala zabrat. Levá strana, která se zdála být odspodu nástupem na ledovec Zamku, je uzavřena skalní masou dvou bezejmenných pětitisícovek. Pokračujeme dál po ledovci pod nádhernou kolmou západní stěnou Bodchony (5152mnm) a před sebou máme severní stěnu Zamku – to už modří vědí. Obcházíme Bodchonu a nabíráme výšku k další skalní hradbě, která uzavírá celou dolinu. Před námi je v tu chvíli asi jediná možnost jak se dostat na Zamok, sedlo Adidži s obtížností 4A.

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sedlo Adidži

Vzdáváme to. Uznáváme si omyl a pro utěšení si připisujeme výšku 4400mnm. Návrat byl krušný. 12 hodin na nohou si vybírá své, takže po koupeli a jídle už se jenom povalujeme. Zamok necháváme Zamkom. Zítra je odpočinkový den. V BC s námi spí páreček z Vídně.

21.7. (rest day)
Ráno rakušani odcházejí k jezeru Iskanderkul. Po obědě vyrážíme nalehko s Pavlem obhlédnout výstupové cesty, jednak do sedla Chimtargy a druhak na Chimtargu samotnou.

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Chimtarga

Mezitím se tábořiště opět rozrostlo. Otec a jeho dva synci z kraje, kde belgičané vaří Stellu Artois, si najali tajické průvodce z Dushanbe na výstup do sedla Chimtargy. Staví si jurtu. Oslíci přinesli dokonce plastové židle a stoly, pro zákazníky samozřejmě. Vůdce smečky oslů nepohrdá naším pozváním na panáčka slivky a obrací do sebe na ex i poslední zbytek naší ohnivé vody. Hned se ptá po další. Ať žije Islám! S Pančem jdeme probrat do jurty výstupovou cestu na Chimtargu s horským vůdcem výpravy. Mimo to se dovídáme nemilou zprávu o smrti německého turisty. Zřítil se do trhliny na ledovci při výstupu na Zamok. Našli se jen jeho rozházené věci. Se záchranou nespěchají, prý v ledu vydrží dost dlouho. Uff, no možná to nebyl zas takový omyl, vlézt do sousední doliny. Prstem na mapě ještě třikrát procházíme výstupovku s komentářem a jdeme spát.

22.7. (Chimtarga – 5489mnm)
Myslím, že jsem ani neusnul. V 1:15 odcházíme. Běžně se Chimtarga z této strany chodí s jedním bivakem v sedle Don nebo v Sedle Mirali. S Pančem chceme ještě ten den sestoupit. Hned za jezerem začíná půldruhé hodiny trvající martyrium v suťovišti. Stezka je značená mužíky, s čelovkou se však všeru špatně hledají. Traverzujeme zprava doleva a pak podél menšího z přítoků jezera až k vodopádu. Ten obcházíme zprava. Jen co se sklon trochu narovná, staví se nám do cesty hradba ledovce. Čelo obcházíme zleva a pokračujeme stále po levé straně až pod ledovcový splaz táhnoucí se od sedla Mirali. Pod ním přes pole trhlin přecházíme napravo. Odtud již v mačkách začínáme drtit firn napřímě do sedla Don.

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sedlo Don

Pomalu se začíná rozednívat. V sedle rozpoznáváme pohyb. Po chvíli zjistíme, že jde o ruskou šestici – dva chlapi a čtyři děvčata, mající stejný záměr. Hned jak si nás všimnou, urychlují přípravy k výstupu a než k nim stihneme dolézt, jsou už navázáni po dvojicích na firnu nad sedlem. Stoupají podél skal vpravo a pak kolmo nahoru pod skalní stupně, přesně podle slov průvodce. Stupně jsou celkem tři a dle rusů je třeba je odjistit. Tomu se chceme vyhnout. Všechno to dění zatím sledujeme v klidu ze sedla. Jakmile nám mizí z dohledu poslední dvojice, vyrážíme také. Což, jak po chvíli zjišťujeme, byla chyba, neboť nás rusové bombardují shora uvolněným kamením. Další půlhodiny čekáme až přejdou všechny dvojice ke druhému stupni, který je pro nás již bezpečnější. Dolézáme zbytek pod nástup s asi dvoumetrovým fixem, na kterém se viditelně podepsal zub času. Bez potřeby jištění vylézáme na první římsu. Erodovaná skála se děsně drolí. K dalšímu stupni čím dál víc ztrácíme morál. Časová ztráta bezmála půldruhé hodiny čekáním na rusy nás odsouvá maximálně k výstupu na Mirali (5066mnm). Hecujeme se a dáváme další římsu, šutry nám přitom zůstávají leckde v ruce a nohama uvolňujeme další, kterými se vzájemně ohrožujeme. Balancujeme na skále i v myšlenkách. Dál už to bez pomoci jištění nejde. Pár smyc co máme, je v téhle lepenici na nic a jiný matroš kromě šroubů do ledu jsme nebrali. V cca 4800mnm otáčíme. Sestup do sedla Don nám trvá dvakrát tak déle. Ze sedla pak pozorujeme ruské družstvo traverzujíc předvrchol Mirali.

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ruské družstvo v akci

Zaledněné svahy jim dávají zabrat, cena za letošní neúrodu sněhu. V poloprázdném BC jsme zpět po dvanácti hodinách. Dan se Zdendou odešli dopoledne do sedla Chimtargy, kde přenocují a zítra se pokusí o vrchol Energie. Petra s Pavlem vyrazili na kukačku do východní části kotle kaznocké doliny. Zdolávají sedlo VAA a jako jediní si připisují i vrchol – Gratuljeta (4127mnm). Zbytek dne poleháváme a doplňujeme tekutiny.Téměř za tmy se vrací belgičané s průvodci. Dva z nich se pokusili o Energii, ale nedostatek sněhu – tedy taktéž zaledovaný vrcholový finiš – je nepustil.

23.7. (sedlo Chimtarga)
I když jsme si domluvili brzké vstávání, následky včerejších výstupů nás drží ve spacáku až do chvíle, kdy se slunce přehoupne pře Zamok a ve stanu začne býti k saunování. Dnes konečně vyrazila čtveřice horolezců pro mrtvého němce. Rušíme BC a vyrážíme také. Přes sedlo Chimtargy do zendonské doliny. První kroky vedou napříč vyschlým jezerem. Poté funíme sutí k bivaku s tureckým záchodkem. Po ledovci pokračujeme spíše vlevo asi do půlky doliny, kde u kamenných větrolamů pro stany začíná druhé úpornější stoupání sutí. Stezka je nepřehledná jen občas zahlédneme mužíka. Nastoupáme téměř pod stěnu a pak traverzujeme k již viditelnému sedlu. Nad námi trčí k nebi vrchol Chimtargy se svojí červenou jižní stěnou. Přecházíme dvě sněžná pole. Na jednom z nich to Petře ujíždí, naštěstí je sníh rozbředlý od slunce, takže sjela asi o dva metry a svojí vahou se zastavila. Suťoviště je nekončící, jeden krok vpřed dva vzad. Po 6 hodinách a 1200m převýšení nakonec stojíme u mohyly v sedle a kocháme se výhledy.

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západ ze sedla Chimtargy

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východ ze sedla Chimtargy

Vysílačkou se spojujeme se zbytkem, jsou asi dvě hodiny před námi. Jestli byla suť cestou do sedla nepříjemná, tak dolů je to překvapeně na pohodu. Jediným problémem jsou další dvě sněho-ledová pole, z nichž jedno s tekoucím potokem pro jistotu odjišťuji. Před a hlavně pod námi, neboť svahy jsou zde dost ostré, se táhne krásné tiché a turisticky opuštěné údolí Zendon. Pod stejnojmenným vrcholem ve výšce 3800mnm a po dalších dvou hodinách sestupu táboříme.

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tábořiště v dolině Zendon

Dovídáme se o neúspěchu na Energii, naše dvojice to otočila ve stejném místě jako před nimi tajická. Letos na fanské pětky jedině se dvěma cepíny a alespoň 6 šrouby (vzpomněl jsem si na radu češky, která na Energii vylezla a popisovala nám cestu u Alaudinských jezer). Vyčerpaní rychle usínáme. V noci mne budí vichr, který v silných nárazech hýbe se stanem. Snad 3× vylézám a zajišťuji plachtu. Jednou mě dokonce vítr nachytal v nestabilní poloze a já pozadu padl celou vahou na konstrukci, divím se, že to Husky vydržel.

24.7. (Velké Allo)
Vstáváme s brzkým ranním sluncem a při prvních paprscích olizujících kamenný stůl snídáme. Celé dopoledne zevlíme v tábořišti a okolí a až před polednem teprve vycházíme. Cílem je jezero Bolšoje Allo – snad nejkrásnější jezero Fanek. Údolím Zendon teče průzračný ledovcový potok, dost velký rozdíl oproti našedlé barvě vody v sousedním údolí Kaznok. Boční doliny se skalními věžemi bych čekal spíše v Grand Canyonu.

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dolina Zendon

Silná eroze i častá zemětřesení jsou patrná v celých Fankách. Nesčetněkrát překračujeme kamenolom vzniklý sesuvem skalního bloku o velikosti několika patrového domu. Místa odtrhů jsou zřejmé ještě dnes. Po čtyřech hodinách stojíme nad jezerem. Barvou tyrkysu trumfuje ta Plitvická a průzračnost odhadujeme k 7 metrům. Jezero má dva přítoky Pravý (podél kterého jsme sestupovali) a Levý Zendon, který protéká dolinou od Moskvy (5046mnm).

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Velké Allo

Odtok se však ztrácí jak jinak než pod dalším kamenolomem. Stany rozbíjíme přímo na břehu jezera za přítomnosti tří pastevců. Pozvánku na ajran (zkvašené kozí mléko) neodmítáme. Z kozího žaludku, kde pastevci uchovávají tuhle dobrotu, nám plní podvakráte ešus až po okraj. Na večeři je už necháváme o samotě. Zítra nás čeká poslední část údolí.

25.7. (hostina)
Ráno tradičně nikam nespěchaje vyčkáváme až nás ze spacáku vyženou první paprsky žiarky. Snídáme, taktéž tradičně, ovesnou kaši, čínské nudle a čaj. Po snídani odchod. Nezdá se, že by cesta ubrala na obtížnosti. Střídají se průchody kamenolomy s prudkými sestupy, kde vyvěrá říčka na jinak suchý povrch koryta a my se můžeme občerstvit a opláchnout prach. Za posledním takovým sestupem zařezávajícím se ostře do skal, se sympaticky říčka opět vrací na povrch v celé síle. Osvěžující koupel je nasnadě. Přibývá zeleně. Stezku lemují plantáže máty, kterou si trháme, abychom si dochutili čaj. Míjíme vyschlé Malé Allo, jež je další známkou letošní mírné zimy. Za jezerem se otevírá konec údolí s prvními prvky blížící se civilizace.

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na konci zendonské doliny

Na svazích jsou roztroušené kamenné příbytky pastevců a zemědělců. Z říčky odebírají vodu a systémem kanálů ji přivádějí na svá políčka. Snažíme se přebrodit na druhou stranu, kde je patrná cesta pro auta. Až jeden z místních si všímá naši zoufalosti a ukazuje níže po proudu na můstek. Než stačíme k mostku přijít, čeká nás spolu se svým bratrem a mísou meruněk. Pozvání na čaj a jogurt neodmítáme. Tábor pak stavíme na zelené louce u potoka pod jeho obydlím. Za pohoštění se mu dostává od nás něco léků a sladkostí. Noc je jasná, spíme prvně jen pod tropikem.

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hostina

Srpek měsíce a hvězdná obloha hladce ořezaná okolními vrchy jen podtrhují genius loci této odlehlé části Asie, ze které se nám bude špatně vracet do uspěchané Evropy.

Hodláte-li pouze projít dolinou Kaznok bez výstupů na okolní vrchy, je lepší než bivak na březích Mutného jezera, vyšlápnout si až k bivaku s tureckým záchodem.

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