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19.October 2015
Velikost písma: A A A Tisk Autor: Taťána Zavřelová
„ Tento způsob zimy zdá se mi poněkud nešťastným. Je deset stupňů, sníh už ani nevím, jak vypadá a na běžkách jsem letos vůbec nestála,“ povzdechla jsem si jednoho únorového večera Odemu, sedíce u piva v malebné cestovatelské hospůdce.
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„Hm,“ povídá, „vím o jedné parádní běžkové túře na severu Švédska. Je to vážně bomba a navíc s sebou skoro nic nepotřebuješ- jedeš od chaty k chatě a i jídlo se tam dá nějaké koupit.“
Tak jo, rozhoduji se rychle a začínám se těšit. Ode kupuje letenky. Pojede s námi ještě jeden jeho kamarád- starší to člověk, takže mu budu bez problémů stačit a bude to paráda. Nabalím se do malého batohu- pár sladkých tyčinek, polívek, něco ovesných kaší, trochu oblečení- stačí.
Za týden přichází mail- hele, ony ty chaty jsou docela drahé, tak to budeme kombinovat se spaním ve srubech. Ale neboj, jsou tam kamna, zatopíme,… Inu, dobrá- vysypu věci z malého batohu, vytáhnu ošoupanou „pětasedmdesátku“, přihodím spacák, karimatku, ešus a vařič a taky víc potravy. Ty bláho- 18kg! Tak to teda ne. Vyhazuju těžké pohory- to zvládnu v botaskách!
Konečně přichází ten vytoužený den D koncem března a my se vydáváme ne cestu. Opouštíme naši jarně rozkvetlou vlast a s lyžemi vypadáme v těch osmnácti stupních nad nulou poněkud kuriosně. Z Odeho postaršího kamaráda se nakonec vyklubal nabušený horolezec v nejlepších letech a já začínám být lehce nervózní.

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Hned po přistání na dalekém severu je mi jasné, že to v těch botaskách nedám- sněhu metrové hromady a ledový vítr proniká do morku kostí. Minus dvacet! Běžím koupit sněhule. Jsou to v podstatě jen trochu vylepšené české filcáky, ale cena je originálně Swedish. A navíc nabalit moje botaskovité treky do báglu. No, to jsem si teda pomohla. Ale to teploučko! Rychle, rychle, bus za chvíli odjíždí! Běžím. V busu jsme jediní pasažéři a sluníčko za oknem krásně hřeje. Za hodinu jsme tam- na místě našeho prvního noclehu. U romantickém srubu v severské divočině. Mráz přibíjí k zemi. Rychle dovnitř a zatopit. No, kamna tu sice jsou, ale dřevo nikoliv!! Já ho zabiju- prý vytápěné sruby! „Musíme se hýbat, jinak zmrznem,“ zavelí Honza. Necháváme tedy bágly uvnitř a vydáváme se na romantickou večerní vyjížďku při zapadajícím slunci. Jdeme po losích stopách, kocháme se mizejícím sluníčkem a posloucháme ticho. Je to vážně nádhera a mé srdce romantika plesá. Připisuji chlapcům jedno malé bezvýznamné plus. Mimochodem, v tuto roční dobu už je světlo téměř do sedmi hodin a den se každý den dlouží o osm minut! Mílovými skoky. Snad ani nemám hlad. Večeřím slivovici a rychle lezu do spacáku ve snaze udržet alespoň trochu tepla. To bude noc. Brrr.

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A byla- noc hrůzy! Klepu kosu a čekám na spásné ráno. Konečně! Plna optimismu a zimy vstávám. Je nádherně. Nebe bez mráčku, jiskřivý sníh a brutální zima. Rychlá snídaně a hup na běžky a hurá do stopy.. .Ale co to? Tělo se vzpouzí, nemůžu se pohnout. Asi je těch čtyřicet stupňů teplotního rozdílu a probdělá noc moc. „Nechte mě tady umřít“, říkám klukům. Nenechali. Vzali mě bágl a já se nějak doploužila do nejbližší chaty. Hodinka a půl v teple mě vzpamatovala, batoh jsme poslali skútrem do další chaty a já byla konečně ready vyrazit na cestu. Jo, jde to! Běžkařská nirvána začíná…

Putujeme od chaty k chatě ( do ledového srubu už mě nikdo nedostane ). V každé chatičce kamna, vonicí březové dřevo, plynový sporák i nádobí. Voda se nabírá z díry v ledu, kadibudky jsou občas zasypané sněhem, ale polystyrénové prkýnko nestudí, večery při svíčkách, území bez signálu, zato s těmi pravými severskými saunami, kde se topí dřevem, válíte se ve sněhu a pozorujete hvězdy. A pak je vám blaze na těle i na duši. Jen jedna sauna poněkud vybočovala z vysokého švédského standardu. Čtvrtý den našeho putování se Ode rozhodl, že přece nepojedeme pořád po „hlavní“ a odbočíme do bočního údolí. O to to bude zajímavější. A bylo. Celý den se sypal sníh, stopu jsme poctivě prošlapávali, Mirovi, který za sebou táhl boby, se několikrát stala ta nehoda, že se mu tyto „severské bobosáně“ skutálely ze svahu a on s nimi… slyšela jsem ho nadávat „jdi mi k šípku a u všech plantážníků…“ I já jsem měla ke konci cesty poněkud potíže- v každém šutru jsem viděla vysněnou chatu a už úplně přesně vím, co to znamená „Fata morgana.“ Mé nadávky byly poněkud jadrnější, což se na tomto místě nehodí citovat.

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Nicméně nakonec jsme přece jen doputovali až na konec údolí k malebné chatičce, kde nás již čekal správce s čajem a sladkými koláčky. Byla to manna nebeská! Večer si moc nepamatuju, protože jsem omdlela nebo co. A když někdo omdlí, tak po něm přece nikdo nemůže chtí, aby vařil večeři, to dá rozum. Jen chlapci toho rozumu moc nepobrali. A pak, když jsem se z těch mdlob probrala, bylo mi řečeno, že objevili úžasnou saunu a že až z ní vyhážou metrák sněhu a zatopí, můžeme jít na to. Tak jo, souhlasím, aspoň mě přestanou bolet nožičky. Po čtyřech hodinách vytápění je v sauně pokojová teplota a okno je stále zamrzlé, ale my jdeme na to. Dochází totiž dřevo. Sauna je pro tři hubený anebo dva tlustý. Víc lidí ani zvířat se tam fakt nevejde. Naštěstí splňujeme první podmínku, takže se tam nějak vmáčknem. U hlavy je docela teplo, ale nožky nám lehce omrzaj. Po další hodině usilovného vytápění se odhodláme jít ven do sněhu. Venku zuří sněhová bouře. Brrr! Rychle zpět do tepla. Zvládla jsem dvě kola a odcházím do pelíšku. Hoši se vrací do chaty asi za hodinu zcela zavátí sněhem…

Ráno se počasí umoudří a my se opět vydáváme na cestu. Mimochodem zažíváme tu odvšeho- krásné slunečné dny se střídají s větrem, sněžením… potkáváme psí spřežení, sněžné skůtry a taky spoustu zajímavých lidiček. Jako třeba tu borku z Norska, co byla na cestě už 56 dní, táhla za sebou asi padesátikilové sáně a já pak měla celý den na talíři, že to je aspoň ženská- ta vydrží spát i ve dvacetistupňovém mrazu, to není jak ty! No a pak ti krajané, kteří s sebou vzali i kytaru, tak trávíme večer za zpěvu písní… Ráno potom vytahují sklenice medu, marmelády, máslo- žádné vločky, ale pravá česká snídaně. Jen ty bágly jim váží 30kg.

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Jak se naše batohy stávají lehčími a lehčími, je nám jasné, že se nám to zde krátí. Zrovna teď, když se mi to konečně začalo líbit! Poslední večer trávíme v Kiruně a já piju své nejdražší pivo v životě- 270 CZK! Aaale- peníze budou a my nebudem! Snad se ani nechce domů. Svaly sice bolí, záda jsou otlačená, ale v duši je pohodička a klid a o to přece jde až v první řadě, ne?!

Napsala Taťána Zavřelová, se kterou se můžete setkat na zájezdu Na běžkách horami Švédska CK Rajbas – Outdoor Travel nebo na trekových zájezdech v Nepálu či Thajsku.

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Pepule
před 9 měsíci

Jo, tak to i já jsem svou ženu hnal severem a bylo to teda nármně krásné a suprové :) Třeba my jsme měli jen jediný a malý problém s tím, že jsme si na této stránce zde – https://armik.cz nemohli vybrali oblečení, protože ho tam mají opravdu moc a my nevěděli, co přesně na takovéto toulky po severu budeme potřebovat, ale nakonec jsme to vyřešili.

Alenka
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Tak to bych si teď tak strašně moc užila. Před pár lety jsem si toho vůbec nevážila, že můžu takhle vycestovat. A na podobné tůře jsem celou dobu kňourala. Jestli to půjde, tuhle zimu už bych někam ráda vyjela. Určitě mám v plánu si koupit kvalitní vlněné oblečení z této webové stránky: https://www.vlnenezbozi.cz/…i-ovci-vlna/.

 
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