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Křížem krážem Kyrgyzstánem

1.February 2016
Velikost písma: A A A Tisk Autor: Matěj Plch
Chtěl jsem se podívat do pořádných hor. Nejsem žádný horolezec, takže něco šlapacího. Himaláje a i Andy jsou dost daleko a navíc se s nárůstem turismu čím dál více zdražují. Původně byla v plánu Gruzie. Měl jsem však štěstí a dostali jsme se i s Kamilem, se kterým jsem už na pár výletech byl, do party lidí jedoucích do Kyrgyzstánu vedených známým brněnským průvodcem Robim .

Už podle předběžného programu bylo vidět, že se máme na co těšit. Tři treky, při kterých se dostaneme víceméně do všech částí této krásné hornaté země, a k tomu trochu civilizace. Všechno mělo být završeno výstupem na pětitisícovku.
Hlavní foto článku
Výhled z Pik Skobeleva, vlevo Pamír

Trénink klasicky neproběhl podle představ. Práce, domácí povinnosti, jiné zájmy a zdravotní problémy mi to nedovolily. A tak jsem se musel spokojit zejména s večerními výběhy Vyšehradských schodů. Děda mi téměř obřadním předáním cepínu a maček předal i štafetu v rodinné vysokohorské tradici a v půli srpna odlétám se zbytkem skupiny přes Instanbul do Biškeku.

Tam nás očekává náš místní průvodce Nikolaj. Není mnoho lidí, kteří by znali tamní hory lépe než on. Má certitikaci UIAGM, za sebou několik expedic v Himalájích i jinde ve světě a v horách tráví většinu času. V létě na výstupech a trecích, v zimě na skialpech a heliskiingu. Na výlet s námi se vrátil z expedice na Pik Lenina. Jeho přítomnost pro mě je jistým uklidněním, že bude všechno v pohodě. Přeci jen jsem ještě na tak vysokých kopcích nebyl.

Na letišti v Biškeku nás čeká první problém. Při přestupu se ztratila zavazadla dvou členů výpravy. Naštěstí první aklimatizační trek nemá být dlouhý a kluci mají konfekční velikosti, takže jim Nikolaj půjčuje základní věci ze svého eráru.

Hlavní město Kyrgyzstánu leží na rozhraní nížiny táhnoucí se z Kazachstánu a hradby hor, které se odtud postupně zvedají, aby vytvořily známou střechu světa. Ranní panorama zasněžených vrcholů za městem je úžasné.

Hned hodinu a půl jízdy za Biškekem leží národní park Ala-Arča, který je naším prvním cílem. Jeho blízká poloha kyrgyzské metropoli ho činí vyhledávaným cílem turistů a patří k místním nejvíce navštěvovaným cílům. V letadle jsme skoro nespali, batohy jsou dost plné, i když jsme něco nechali v depozitu, a tak se do kopce šlape dost ztuha. Je otázkou, jestli to, že se všechno halí do mlhy a začíná pršet, není spíše štěstí. Aspoň nevidíme, co máme před sebou. Pěkně zostra pořád nahoru, nakonec to dělá převýšení asi 1300 m. Ve výšce 3300 metrů se nachází kemp s horolezeckou chatou Racek. To je náš cíl.

Tábořiště Raceka po nočním poprášení sněhem.

Díky časovému posunu, který způsobil, že jsem více než 40 hodin skoro nespal, usínám hned po tom, co jsme postavili stan a najedli se. Bohužel to pak spolu s nadmořskou výškou znamená, že nespím velkou část zbytku noci. Během ní přechází déšť do sněžení, takže ráno je všude sněhový poprašek. Příliš radost z toho nemáme, neboť nás čeká trénink a aklimatizace na ledovci. Ten padá až ke kempu ze strmých stěn čtyřtisícových vrcholů, kterým dominuje Pik Korona, pro svou obtížnost známá mezi horolezci. Motá se mi hlava a je mi blbě, takže jsem vděčný Kamilovi, že bere batoh. Strmou pasáž s mohutnými seraky překonáváme po hřbetu morény. Pak pokračujeme na mačkách až k bivaku, nacházejícím se zhruba v půlce ledovce.

Stoupání na Pik Učitel, hezky je vidět ledovec, po kterém jsme předchozí den šli.

Druhý den nám vstávání zpříjemní stádo kozorohů, kteří se pasou ve svahu nad našimi stany. Cílem dne je vrchol 4540 m vysokého Pik Učitele. Cesta vede hodně suťoviskem, ale jinak je to šlapací vrchol. Za sovětských časů to byla jediná čtyřtisícovka, která byla dostupná bez horolezeckých zkušeností a vybavení. Počasí vychází na jedničku, takže si můžeme užít rozhledy do rovin k Biškeku a zejména na vrcholy a ledovce kolem. Pro mě je to první čtyřtisícovka. Následuje docela brutální sestup. Po návratu do tábora nás totiž čeká jeho sbalení a další sestup až dolů do Kashka Suu. Tam přespáváme v chatě, odkud nás ráno vyzvedávají dodávky. Proplétáme se dopravou v Biškeku a po překvapivě dobré dálnici podél hranic s Kazachstánem míříme k jezeru Issyk-Kul.

Doprava v Kyrgyzstánu je dost divoká. Hodně se používá troubení, jezdí se rychle a skoro vůbec se nedodržují předpisy. Předjíždění přes dvojitou čáru oddělující protisměr dálnice není výjimkou. Na druhou stranu všude stojí policejní hlídky. Když jsem se ptal, podle jakého vzorce zastavují auto, protože by měli zastavovat všechny, tak mi Nikolaj řekl, že oni prostě vybírají náhodně. Zajímavé je, že tu mají poměrně nová auta, které se sem dostávají hlavně z Japonska. Národním autem je Lexus, který zejména v okolí větších měst potkáte hodně často. Další kuriozitou je, že se tankuje se zapnutým motorem. A někteří u toho ještě kouří…

Issyk-Kul je obrovské jezero obklopené zasněženými vrcholky. Ke koupání v něm jsem byl značně skeptický. Bylo však překvapivě teplé. Kousek za ním leží město Karakol, které se stalo naším východištěm do pohoří Terský Alatau.

Pasoucí se koně, krávy, kozy a ovce lze potkat v Kyrgyzstánu i hodně vysoko.

Zatažené nebe a cáry mraků halící okolní kopce nedávají příliš nadějný výhled na začátek treku. Všichni se naskládáme do bývalého vojenského náklaďáku, který nám ušetří spoustu času a výškových metrů. Při výjezdu do hor se přesvědčujeme, že ruská technika přežije a projede všechno. A to ještě nevíme, jak bude vypadat zpáteční cesta. Vystupujeme samozřejmě do deště. Na začátku luk, kde se pasou koně, potkáváme německou výpravu. Ta jde poměrně nalehko. Aby ne. Batohy jim nesou místní mladíci a nedaleko je čeká už připravený tábor s usměvavou vedoucí. Je ještě brzo, takže pokračujeme stoupáním do sedla, pod kterým rozkládáme stany.

Už se stmívalo, když dostáváme zajímavé sousedy. Za vitálním dědou s manželkou doráží postupně skupinka kazašské omladiny. Jak se ukazuje, děda byl zdatný horal. Vypráví nám, že s Čechy lezl někdy v 70. letech ve společné expedici na Pik Lenina. Taky je velkým příznivcem Sovětského svazu a Rudé armády. Když začíná zpívat budovatelské písně včetně Internacionály, tak to někteří nevydrží a vysvětlí mu náš názor na Rudou armádu. To ještě netušíme, že nás jeho prozpěvování vzbudí v 5 ráno, kdy vyžene svou omladinu na rozcvičku. S Kamčou máme stan naštěstí dostatečně daleko. Já se konečně popasoval s výškou a časovým posunem, takže jsem se poprvé v horách normálně vyspal.

Ráno na ledovci pod Pik Karakol.

Po ránu vystoupáme do sedla, kde potkáváme skupinku studentek z Biškeku s dvěma průvodci. Padáme znovu dolů do údolí vedoucího pod Pik Karakol. Než se nám na něj otevírá impozantní pohled, je potřeba bohužel zase nastoupat ztracené metry. V plánu je dojít až pod ledovec, ale kvůli zdravotním problémům jednoho z členů naší party stavíme stany dříve.

Na ledovci pod Pik Karakol.

Následující den je náročný. I kvůli pokračující zdravotní indispozici postupujeme po ledovci dosti pomalu. Brzo odpoledne nás navíc chytá sněžení. Nestihli bychom přejít přes další ledovec, který nás čekal za hřebenem, takže se musíme utábořit na ledovci. Nakonec to je vcelku v pohodě, neboť nespíme přímo na ledu. Blbý přístup k vodě po mazlavém jílu a trochu nepohodlí nám vynahrazují ranní výhledy při výstupu do dalšího sedla. Jeho druhou stranu pro jistotu Nikolaj odjišťuje fixy. Přeci jen s mačkami po šutrech a těžkými batohy na zádech nejsou naše kroky úplně nejjistější. Po jejich překonání musíme, kličkujíc mezi trhlinami, rychle pospíchat do bezpečí před padajícím kamení. Na jaře tu kus nad námi zahynul Čech, když ho zasáhlo.

Při sestupu údolím kolem pasoucích se koní nás opět brzo odpoledne skrápí vydatný déšť, dokonce kolem začne hřmít.

Jezero Ala-Kul.

Ráno zase nanovo. Kousek dolů údolím a pak krpálem nahoru do sedla. Výstup je odměněn výhledem na azurovou modř jezera Ala-Kul, na jehož břehu přespíme.

Další den ho obcházíme a zdoláváme další vysoké sedlo. Otevírá se nám pohled na Pik Karakol a okolní kopečky.

Azurová modř jezera Ala-Kul.

Scházíme do hlubokého údolí, kde završujeme den v horkých radonových pramenech Altyn Arashan. Nikolaj říkal, že sem jezdí na skialpy a heliskiing. Přes den jsou v horách a večer si dají lázeň, když kolem je minus 30. Cesta zpět do Karakolu známým vojenským transportérem je velká jízda na horské dráze. Přejíždíme snad metrové bavany, valíme se z kopce s neskutečným sklonem, úzká cesta se klikatí v úbočí prudkého kaňonu… Dobrodružnou atmosféru podtrhuje dodávka, kterou vidíme viset ve srázu zapříčenou o stromy. Následující dny nás čeká civilizace. Vracíme se do Biškeku, kde toho ale moc k vidění není a tak zbytek večera trávíme gastroturistikou.

Kyrgyzové jsou národem pastevců.

Druhý den musíme vstávat brzy. Čeká nás 700 km dlouhý přejezd přes vysokohorská sedla a nejrůznější kaňony na muslimský jih do města Oš. Odkud vyrážíme na poslední trek do pohoří Alaj.

Řidič po cestě pěkně odírá spodek dodávky o šutry, v jednom místě musíme i tlačit, ale nakonec nás vyváží až na konec silnice. Dál musíme sami. Cestou potkáváme pár jurt.

Po přenocování překonáváme zasněžené sedlo, z nějž se nám naskýtá výhled na Pamír. Vpravo se za okolními štíty schovává vrchol, kam bychom měli vystoupit. Znovu musíme prudce dolů. Tentokrát jemným suťoviskem až do větvení údolí. Ačkoliv se nám nechce, vyrážíme opět vzhůru. Bolí to, ale jinak to nejde. Zítra chceme na vrchol a to se bude hodit každý metr. Na místě zamýšleného tábořiště nás čeká nepříjemné překvapení. Všechna koryta jsou vyschlá. Nikolaj s Robim pobíhají kolem a hledají vodu. Nakonec se jim to naštěstí podaří.

Na cestě k vrcholu. V pozadí Pamír.

Nastává den D. Ráno vyrážíme vstříc ledovci. S přibývajícími metry se za námi opět otevírá pohled na Pamír. Po nepříliš prudkém ledovci stoupáme pod stěnu našeho cíle, kterým je vrchol Pik Skobeleva s 5051 metry. Svah je tvořen z jemného suťoviska. Po ránu je přimrzlý, sice se to boří a klouže, ale pomalu nabíráme metry. Celou dobu přemýšlím, jak v tom budeme sestupovat. Nakonec se vyškrábu až do sedýlka pod vrcholem, kam je to po sněhu už jen kousek. Velká radost. První pětitisícovka, krásné počasí a nádherné výhledy. Fotíme jako o život.

V sedle pod vrcholem. Dolů to nevypadá tak prudce…

Sestup je nakonec snadný. Boříme paty do suti, tyčkami udržujeme stabilitu a kloužeme dolů trochu jako na lyžích. Nikolaj to zkušeně sbíhal.

Táboříme pod Pik Skobeleva.

Přenocujeme poslední noc v horách a další den sestupujeme do vesničky uprostřed ničeho. Leží u silnice do Tádžikistánu, která se táhne údolím vyhloubeným řekou mezi pohořími Alajem a Pamírem. Vyzvedávají nás tam opět dodávky. Zpáteční cesta je zajímavá díky okolním scenériím a dopravním minizácpám způsobeným dobytkem, který pasáci ženou do nižších poloh, neboť v horách se již hlásí pomalu o slovo zima. Své jurty přepravují za stády na korbách aut.

Uprostřed ničeho…

Oš, odkud máme letenky zpět, je sice zapsaná ve světovém dědictví UNESCO, ale není na ní nic zajímavého mimo orientální atmosféry, kterou jsem ještě dosud neměl kde poznat. Snažím se koupit něco domů na místním tržišti, ale nic mě nezaujalo. Kluci kupují aspoň místní slané tvarohové kuličky. Dělají chybu, protože je zkouší. Jsou tak odporné, že je vyhazují.

Moje fotogalerie jako:

Kyrgyzstán je krásná země, která ještě není zkažená turistikou. Zdejší lidé jsou milí a snaží se cizincům vyhovět. Ani na muslimském jihu jsem se necítil nějak zvláštně. Místní vláda si uvědomuje, že při absenci průmyslu a nerostného bohatství je turismus jednou z mála možností nějakých příjmů, takže se ho snaží podporovat. Všude jsou policisté, ale pokud jste turisti, tak si vás nevšímají, případně vám ochotně pomůžou. Mladí mluví trochu anglicky, nohama rukama se dá domluvit vždy. Ceny vám ukáží třeba na kalkulačce. Ti z nás, kteří ovládali ruštinu, domluvili se rusky. Českou republiku zná poměrně dost Kyrgyzů – pravděpodobně ještě jako pozůstatek RVHP. Policejní důstojník v Biškeku, kterého jsme se ptali na cestu, se rozzářil, když jsme mu řekli, odkud jsme. Prý měl Čezetu :). Ceny jsou srovnatelné, případně nižší než u nás. Dá se tu koupit skoro cokoliv. Díky blízkému Kazachstánu a partnerství s Ruskem je tu poměrně levný benzín.

Jedli jsme většinu místních tradičních pokrmů. Já tedy sním všechno, ale myslím, že i ostatním chutnalo. Zdravotní problém z jídla jsme měli jen v jednom případě. Manty jsou mleté maso v těstíčku. Lagman je typická polévka-vývar s masem, zeleninou a širokými nudlemi. Plov je rýže s masem, kousky zeleniny, která je omaštěná tukem z vaků, které mají místní ovce na zadku. A pak samozřejmě klasicky šašlik.

Na dopravu se používají klasické dodávky, které vás dovezou skoro všude. Cestou jsme potkávali vcelku hodně cizinců cyklistů. Na kola bych však Kyrgyzstán nedoporučil. Je to kopcovitá, rozlehlá země, přes den je horko, nedodržují se moc předpisy, silnice jsou prašné… Na treky, horolezení, turistiku, skialpy a heliskiing však vřele doporučuji.

Každé z pohoří, které jsme navštívili, je jiné a má vlastní klima.

Pokud byste chtěli něco podobného absolvovat, zkuste se podívat na nabídku V-Tour nebo ho kontaktujte. Robi jim to bude možná průvodcovat.

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před 2 lety

Kam dál z Kyrgyzstánu? V Oši začíná slavná Pamir Highway > https://www.pasapusu.cz/…strese-sveta, která prochází průsmyky v nadmořské výšce přes 4000 m. Je to skvělý zážitek a pokud člověk cestuje stopem, dostane se do kontaktu s místními obyvateli a nkěteří vás dokonce pozvou k sobě domů.

Ivulenka
před 3 lety

No já nevím jak vy, ale třeba já osobně mám hrozně moc ráda jen uzené maso a to konkrétně podle tohoto návodu zde – https://napovime.cz/…-uzene-maso/ , takže tak :) No, nicméně, jestli byste někdo chtěl i nějaké mé osobní rady, určitě se mi ozvěte sem nebo na ivananavratilova386@seznam.cz a dejte mi vědět :)

Helena
před 3 lety

Do Kyrgyzstánu jsme se chystali letos. Už jsme měli vše pořešené a pak nám do toho hodil vidle koronavirus. O čem se moc nemluví, tak při půjčení auta tam, nebo pokud jedete autem už z domu, tak si pořešte kvalitní gumy. Cesty tam jsou v hrozným stavu. Poradili nám to ve www.pneuok.cz, když jsme se jenom zmínili o tom, že se chystáme do téhle země. :))

Marek
před 4 lety

Já už jsem měl podobnou dobrodružnou trasu v plánu opravdu dlouhou dobu a nechtěl jsem to kvůli covid-19 odkládat, jenže jsem se dostal do situace, kdy jsem potřeboval nějakých 50 tisíc navíc, abych vše v klidu poplatil. Rozhodl jsem se tedy obětovat auto, které jsem prodal přes firmu https://zahotove.cz/ a na ruku jsem dostal všechny peníze.

 
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