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Mont Blanc 2016 - Francouzská výzva

7.September 2016
Velikost písma: A A A Tisk Autor: Leoš Bařina
Před dvěma lety , při výšlapu na Sněžku,jsem chtěl jako začínající horal zjistit,zda je v mých možnostech vystoupat na vrchol Mont Blanc.V tomto článku popisuji první myšlenku na zdolání tohoto masivu,zároveň i přípravu a po té samotný výstup.
Hlavní foto článku

Lysá,Sněžka,Ger­lach,Triglav,Son­nblickbasis Při ostravské misi jsem se jednoho nedělního rána probudil a kouknul na nejvyšší horu Beskyd.Řekl jsem si , že neproflákám tak hezký den válením a půjdu se projít.V ten okamžik se ve mně probudilo něco nového.Útěk z reálného uspěchaného života vystřídalo ticho, klid a hlavně lidé, kteří tohle všechno sdílejí s vámi. Bez kondice jsem profuňel první výstup,ale něco mě hnalo dál.Když Lysá, tak i nejvyšší hora Česka. Při rodinném výstupu na Sněžku se už ve mně hnula touha trávit více času v kopcích.Tehdy mě poprvé napadla myšlenka,zda jsem schopen vyjít i na nejvyšší horu Evropy.A ještě se smělým časovým horizontem dvou let.Počty jednoduché – bylo mi čtyřicet a každý rok navíc Vám ukrajuje nejen věk ,ale i síly.Vše nejde ovšem hned a naráz.Stanovil jsem si první bod, který měl prověřit mé nejen fyzické,ale i tělesné schopnosti.A tak na další rok jsem si naplánoval výstup na Gerlach ( viz. článek loňského léta).Z podpory horského vůdce se mi podařilo i tohoto vrcholu dosáhnout.Mimo jiné tento článek se stal v jednu chvíli nejčtenějším, protože jsem si dovolil jako amatér vylézt na tuto nelehkou horu a ještě vše z tohoto pohledu popsat. Gerlach prověřil spoustu věcí, od kterých jsem se poučil a v září se vyšvihl na slovinský Triglav. Po téhle úžasné trekové záležitosti ( též popsané v článku ) jsem měl jasno pro příští rok.Pokusit zlézt nejvyšší horu Evropy ( dle učebnice zeměpisu ).

Příprava Opět bylo důležité k sobě najít ideální parťáky.Bohužel ambice mých kamarádů z předešlých akcí byli jiné a tak jsem zase zveřejnil inzerát.Ozvalo se i v tuto podzimní dobu ( říjen 2015 ) hodně lidí a já začal hledat podobné tipy jako já. Vedle správných parťáků, jsem chtěl i vhodný doprovod v podobě horského vůdce.Přes jednoho nadšence ( Jaroš ) jsem se setkal s Bimboškou a začali jsme pomalu tvořit přípravu v podobě ledovcového kurzu na Sonnblicku. Tato únorová akce byla nejen namáhavá, a já do smrti kamarád se skialpy určitě nebudu,ale i účelná ve všech důležitých věcech.Perfektní akce,super lidičky. Z tohoto výcviku vznikl základní tým pro Mont Blanc: Bimboška – energetická žena s neuvěřitelnou fyzičkou Dan ( Mucha ) – ostravský týpek s odhodláním a sílou tatranského medvěda, který skončil před 10 lety na Gouteru Luboš ( Buřič ) – sečtělý kousek karvinského původu a s pražským nádechem,frajer se zkušeností Matterhonského zubu, s výstupem na Kilimandžáro Leoš ( Bari ) – minimum zkušeností s VHT

Bimboška dala přípravu a tři měsíce jsme všichni začali makat na posílení svalů, sundání nějakých kil. Ještě v zimě , jsem chodil panelákové schody s 20 kily v podobě pet lahví s vodou v krosně.Těšil jsem se na jaro, abych už mohl i ven, protože běhání není moje silná stránka. S oteplením, jsem připravil kolo a začal intenzivněji makat. Kolo – na začátku 3×20 km týdně, na konci 3× 30–40km v terénu mezi vinohrady Cviky – na začátku denně pět Tibeťanů Kliky – na začátku 15×3 serie denně, na konci 30×5 serií denně Sed- leh – na začátku denně 15×3, na konci 20×4 Dřepy – 10× 3 , na konci 20×3 Takže vznikl rozměr 150/80/50. Mezitím pár pochodů ( 18km ) se zátěží na zádech a výstup na Schneeberg.

Cesta Den odjezdu se blíží a řešíme trochu logistiku v závislosti na počasí a Bimboščiných povinnostech ve škole.Do týmu se měli přidat i Jirka s Lukášem.Předpověď počasí nic moc a tak jsme se rozhodli s Buřičem a Muchou vyjet o den dřív.Jednak kvůli aklimatizaci,tak i načasování výstupu.Trochu vzniká spor ohledně druhé skupiny. Je 23.6. 2016 a my vyrážíme v 18h z Brna a ve 22 h nabíráme Buřiče v Praze, přes nevoli rodinných příslušníků.Obavy jsou na místě, den předtím zabila lavina Novozélanďana a dva další bojují o život. Napětí cítíme i my v břišním svalstvu,ale stejně vyrážíme směr Chamonix. Přes ČR se dostáváme na německou noční dálnici až nás po dlouhé cestě probouzí nádherné svítání ve švýcarském Martigny.Úžasná stoupání podél vinic nás nakopávají do nového dne.V 7:15 stojíme na náměstí v Chamonix.Městečko ještě spí, ovšem voňavá pekárna nám dává příležitost ochutnat místní pečivo.Přemísťujeme se do Les Houches k místní lanovce.Parkujeme přímo u ní na neplaceném parkovišti.Máme čas, tak jdeme ochutnat francouzskou ranní kávu.Vše okoření nádherný pohled na masiv , který nás zajímá. V 9 h nastupujeme do lanovky k mezistanici Bellevue , ze které v 10: 25 pokračujeme vyhlášenou tramvají ( šalinou ) do poslední zastávky Nid D´Aigle ve výšce 2.327 m.n.m.

Nid D´Aigle – Tete Rousse Po vyhlídkové jízdě šalinou máme krosny na zádech, trekovky v každé ruce a jdeme na pochod směr chata Tete Rousse.Po nastudování spoustu článků by nás měla čekat asi dva a půl hodinová chůze po kamenech a sněhových polí.V tuto dobu je neobvykle hodně sněhu, takže se rveme nahoru v hlubokém sněhu.Buřič v těchto chvílích začíná pociťovat svůj napěchovaný batoh, kde využil každého milimetru k zaplnění.Přichá­zíme k malé boudě pod úpatím kopce tvořeného ze zasněženého kamení.Rozhodujeme se nasadit pro sichr mačky.Od této chvíle již musíme dávat pozor kam šlápnout.Zatím nám pomáhají trekovky.Na jedné z nich ztrácím talíř a hned je to nepříjemnější.Buřič bojuje sám se sebou a asi po dvou a půl hodině přicházíme ke kříži.Za chvíli na vrcholku této skály na nás vykukuje Teterka.U chatky před sněhovým polem se nás místní ochranář ptá, zda máme rezervaci na chatě.Samozřej­mě.Přecházíme pole a ve 13:50 usedáme na terase Teterky.Jsme tady o den dřív než máme skutečnou rezervaci na spaní, tak vyjednáváme s místní obsluhou.Chceme si pronajmout stan.Na osobu 10 euro je v poho,ale za pronájem stanu chtějí kauci 300 euro.Jsme asi na jiné planetě.Karty neberou a hotovost takovou nemáme.Jdeme tedy využít našich vařičů k uvaření výborných čínských specialit na základě převařené vody.Sedáme na venkovní kamení a kupodivu kolem nás létají naše oblíbené mouchy.Po chvíli známe pravý důvod.Ocitáme se v minovém poli , dle Buřiče tzv. Kokešů ráj Jsme přece otrlí chlapi a tak si vychutnáváme nejen jídlo,ale i sluníčko. Obsluha se nad námi slituje a přespáváme na zemi jídelny.Přidávají se k nám další opozdilci.To nám nevadí, jen musíme počkat až se vyklidí lokál.Čas na spánek a první noční můru jménem Grand couloir.

Tete Rousse – Gouter Je krásné páteční ráno a po uvaření čaje vyrážíme v 7:35 h vzhůru na Gouter.Ten by nám měl posloužit jako druhý výškový tábor a zároveň počkat na druhou skupinku vedenou Bimboškou.Po 20 minutách se poprvé seznamuji s Velkým kuloárem.Svítí sluníčko a tento žlab dnes vypadá tiše.Na poprvé všichni v celkem pohodě překonáváme přechod po vyšlapaném sněhovém chodníčku.Uprostřed je vytvořen vymletý prudký žlab,ale dnes jde vše jako po másle.Ve mě ale budí respekt.Na konci pomocí ocelových lan překonáváme stoupání až na hřeben a postupujeme bez jištění a lana prudce vzhůru ke Gouteru.Po asi 2/3 lezení přichází poslední pasáž ,která je již jištěna lany,ale většina je částečně pod sněhem.Síly máme a tak nepoužívám karabinu k jištění.Je to riskantnější,ale rychlejší.Po třech hodinách stojíme na rampě staré chaty a kocháme se azurovým nebem a krásou kolem.Jsem zklamán,že ani v 3.835 metrech nevidím vrchol.Přecházíme hřebínek,který rozděluje starou a novou chatu a shazujeme sedáky,mačky a boty.Dle recenzí je Gouter moderní stavba se slušným zázemím a já se o tom přesvědčil.Navíc jsme si padli do oka s personálem, což mělo po sléze výhody.Dáváme si omeletu ( výborná ), já opět cukr v podobě Coca Coly a čekáme na zprávy od druhé skupiny.Jsme v takové formě,že kdybychom měli lano,ještě ten den vyrazíme na vrchol.Času máme dost.Zprávy druhé skupiny hlásí,že v 16 h chtějí z Tete Rousse vyrazit za námi.To by bylo bezva na brzký ranní výstup,protože odpoledne už se má zhoršit počasí.Asi po půl hodině ovšem přichází zpráva,že druhá skupina kvůli vyčerpání odkládá výstup za námi na ráno.Přibližně v 8 h ráno by nás měli dohnat.Dáváme si tedy karafu červeného a debatujeme, zda to na druhý den vše klapne.Ještě z nouze vymýšlíme jak získat lano,kdyby druhá skupina nedorazila a v zoufalé situaci vytváříme inzerát na zapůjčení lana.Samozřejmě bez efektu,ale s oceněním od místních za snahu.Jdeme spát brzo do kóji,ale za 55 euro to neber.

Gouter – Tete Rousse V sobotu vstáváme v 7 h a při čaji očekáváme zprávy z druhého tábora.Zneklidňuje nás,že nikdo nenapsal, kdy vyrazili.Asi v půl deváté dostáváme zprávu ,že se zhoršilo počasí a dole prší.To znamená,že skupina Bimbošky odvolává výstup a i celou akci.Vzhledem k tomu,že jsme se všichni shodli na tom,že bez lana cestu kterou neznáme, určitě na vrchol nepůjdeme.Roz­hodujeme se rychle a v 9h sestupujeme dolů.Jde o první a zároveň hodně těžké rozhodnutí.Dostat se na vrchol je možnost,vrátit se zpátky dolů povinnost ( tohle jsme měl v hlavě celou dobu ). Každým dnem se hora mění a tentokrát nás čeká hodně náročný sestup strmou stěnou.V půlce nás zastihne sněhová bouře a vítr podporuje bičování ledových krystalek do našich tváří.Musím sundat brýle,protože se mlží a vidím jen rozmazaně.V tomhle ledovém pekle přicházíme ke kuloáru.Jištění není možné a já mám zase sevřený žaludek.Tentokrát mi už ukazuje ,proč je tak nebezpečný.Mucha jde první,uprostřed se zastavuje a kouká na asi dva a půl metru vysoký schod uprostřed.Sleduji jak ho zdolává a při tom kontroluji svah,jestli nepadají kameny.Buřič volí variantu se zaseknutým cepínem,jak je zvyklý ze stěn a má trošku problémy.Nakonec se vyškrábe.Do toho hrozí nebezpečné blesky.Přicházím ke stěně a vím co dělat.Zasazuji cepín svisle do schodu a snažím se zakopnout mačku.Jenže na podpěrnou levou nohu se mi to nepodaří,protože v momentě přenesení váhy se kus sněhu uvolní a já visím jen za cepín.Instinktivně se přitahuji a začnu kopat mačkami do sněhu.Podaří se mi pevně zabořit přední hroty a rychle vystoupám schod.Je to první a nepříjemný zážitek s kuloárem.V tu chvíli jsem netušil,že bude ještě hůř. Ve sněhové bouři se po 20 minutách dostáváme na chatu a očekáváme druhou skupinu.Celý sestup trval asi tři náročné hodiny.Nikoho nenajdeme a po zapnutí mobilů si čteme zprávu,že skupina kvůli počasí to balí a jede domů.Tady nechám každého ať si udělá obrázek.Každopádně jsme čekali alespoň zanechání lana.

Rozhodnutí V tuto chvíli naše nálada jde pod bodem mrazu a nám je jasné,že naše mise končí a Mucha ani napodruhé horu neudělá.Zajišťujeme si ubytko,protože na sestup ještě dnes nemáme jak fyzické tak ani mentální síly.Objednáváme si karafu vína a mlčky přemýšlíme co bylo špatně.Mezitím sušíme mokré věci po celé chatě.Přichází nadšení noví lezci,kteří ráno půjdou nahoru.Jsme smutní,zklamaní a odevzdaní.Při druhé karafě přichází Buřič s naprosto šíleným nápadem.Kdyby někdo byl schopen sejít z TR do Les Houches na parkoviště pro lano , teoreticky bychom se ještě o jeden výstup mohli pokusit.Fyzicky jsme měli všichni neuvěřitelnou fazonu,ale bylo jasné,že jediný kdo by to mohl dát , tak jedině Mucha.Tuhle bláznovinu ještě podpořily zprávy z domova,že následující dva dny mají být pro výstup ideální.Nejdřív proběhlo tradiční odsouhlasení a popravdě já své rozhodnutí hodně odkládal až do sjednaného limitu ( ten jsme vždy stanovili ).Zkrátka obava z kuloáru si v mé hlavě našla své místo.Limit se blížil a já se rozhodl přidat ke klukům.Druhé těžké rozhodnutí.Mucha to vzal na sebe.

Tete Rousse – Gouter po druhé V 7 h nedělního rána dne 26.6.2016 , Mucha startuje svůj nejtěžší maraton.Z TR na šalinu,potom přesun na lanovku a parking v Les Houches.Očekáváme ho asi ve 14:30.Jsme v kontaktu a píše,že při sestupování mu praskl popruh u batohu.Nepří­jemné.Mezitím sušíme venku , mlha se střídá se sluníčkem a hlídající kamzík stále vyhlíží do údolí.Vyprávíme si s Buřičem příhody, které se Mucha třeba někdy dozví.Je nám už sakra líp,i když personál na nás hledí,proč nejdeme nahoru,když je počasí ideál.Přichází k nám jeden z nich a dává Buřičovi vizitku.Je to šerpa z Nepálu a má za sebou 5× Everest,K2,Makalu a Manaslu.Tady uklízí stoly a myje podlahu.Čas se vleče,ale v 15:30 vtrhne do jídelny Mucha s novým batohem a lanem.Rozhodně nevypadá,že by ještě dnes s námi měl jít nahoru na Gouter.Dáváme mu hodinku oddechu u čaje a piva a necháváme na něm,zda do toho půjde. V 16:40 jdeme znovu na to.Gouter podruhé,kuloár potřetí.Mám obavu.Včera bylo škaredě, odpoledne se kameny uvolňují častěji.Opět stojíme na začátku chodníku.První jde Buřič.Za hranu schodu nejde vidět a gestikuluje s Muchou.Ten jde za ním , já zůstávám na kraji.Uprostřed žlabu si prožije Buřič těžkou chvilku,když se z ničeho nic uvolní několik kamenů a míří na něj.Naštěstí ho minou.Tohle bylo o fous.Buřič s problémy překonává schod , Mucha jde za ním.V hlavě mám jasno.Nejdu.Chci to zakřičet na kluky,ale nejde mi to.Nějak sám od sebe jdu ke schodu.Mucha na mě čeká.Cepín opět zapíchnu z horní části a kamarád mě naviguje kam mám zakopnout opěrnou nohu.Jsem pevně na zemi ,překračuji žlab a spěchám na konec.Nebylo to tak hrozné,ale…..Opět razíme cestu sněhem vzhůru po stěně.V horní pasáži se tentokrát už jistím na laně.Přece jen spoléhání na sílu paží mě unavuje víc. V 19:45 jsme unavení na Gouteru a personál kroutí hlavou.Těšíme se do peřin,nocleh máme zajištěn.Chata je plná, má být hezky.Mucha dnes předvedl famózní výkon a jsme mu vděční.Zaslouží si pivo a večeři.Vepřové s fazolí kopne nám všem.Ještě s Buřičem chvíli sedíme a bavíme se o zítřku.Chceme to dát.Přesunujeme se do postele,brzy vstáváme.

Gouter – Mont Blanc Pondělí , 27.6.2016 . Budíček ve 4 h ráno.Koukám z okna,mám VIP postel, a ještě je tma.Chceme chvíli počkat.Nechceme jít s čelovkami.V 5:15 jsem však oblečení a nastartováni ke zdolání hory,která nám to jen tak nenechává.V botárně se střídá dost lidí.Někteří to otáčejí.Vycházíme za svítání a do zimy.Nějak se nemůžeme rozchodit.Hřebínek na Gouterem nám dává zabrat.Šmarja, co budu dělat těch pět hodin k vrcholu? Jsme strategicky domluveni,že máme dost času a nikam nespěcháme.A bylo to další správné rozhodnutí.Od chaty přichází nekonečně dlouhý výšlap sjezdovou ( autor Buřič ).Za nádherně vycházejícího slunce ,vidíme asi tři skupinky pře námi jak zleva doprava stoupají sjezdovkou.Vedle kousek od nás je nádherná trhlina.Když jsme na vrcholu svahu koukáme na Vallotku ,kterou odděluje údolíčko.Tady pociťujeme skutečnou zimu podpořenou silným větrem.Mám ještě mokré rukavice od včerejška a mám pocit , že mi umrznou prsty.Chci dělat fotky,ale jedu na úsporný režim sundávání rukavic.Buřič na tom není moc dobře.Překonáváme údolí a vstupujeme do Vallotky.Z venku docela slušná plechovka,ale vevnitř nás vítá smrad a hrozný nepořádek.Nechápu ,jak tady může někdo vařit a nocovat.Ale v krizi je možné všechno.Buřič se klepe a tak vyčkáváme,až se dáme trochu dohromady.Ještě nás čeká dlouhá cesta.Ač to tak nevypadá,nikdo z nás už to v tuto chvíli nevzdá.Ruce se třesou,ale ta jiskra odhodlání a vnitřní síla je na oko patrná. Ráno jsem si dal gelovou energii,jako každý den před aktivitou a vodu.Ta mi bohužel v hadičce zmrzla,takže jsme odkázaní na zásoby Buřiče.Po asi 20 minutovém odpočinku jdeme makat.Teď už se není kde schovat.Dívám se na ty hřebínky a že jich je.Ve článcích jsem se dozvěděl tak možná o dvou,ale že jich bude tolik.Jsou na nich vyšlapány chodníčky místy tak na jednu stopu a samozřejmě na každé straně strmý sráz končící někde…..Můžeš myslet jen na to,kam šlápneš.Kolikrát pro jeden krok ověřuješ pevnost pod nohou.Vítr sílí a musíš dávat pozor i na samotnou stabilitu.Jdeme společně s ruskou skupinou,kterou táhne gajda a má s nimi co dělat.Pro nás je to docela fajn.Asi v půlce míjíme českou skupinku a zase je to radostnější.Z pů­vodní čtyřčlenné skupinky se vrací z vrcholu dvě holčiny a kousek za nimi třetí do party klučina.Zřejmě nejzkušenější čtvrtý z nich, zůstal na Vallotce.I tohle je Mont Blanc.Můžeš být fyzicky připraven,ale výška ti přeškrtá plány.Parta od Olomouce nám dodává energii a ještě radí kudy obejít trhlinu.Loučíme se.Vítr sílí a přicházíme k trhlině.Na vrchol je to už snad půl hodiny a nás čeká asi třímetrová stěna , kde je nataženo lano.Rusové se od trhliny vrací a volí stejnou variantu jako my.Necháme je lézt první a ještě pomáháme holčině.Potom nastupuje Buřič a jde vidět co ho baví a je jeho silnou stránkou.Já jdu po něm , snažím se sám,ale parťák mě táhne nahoru,že se neopatrně kopnu do kolena.Nic zásadního.Po zdolání stěny i Muchou nastupujeme na závěrečný hřeben,který je ještě ostřejší.Těsně pod vrcholem jsou vytvořeny schody a kluci chtějí ještě snímeček.Poslední metry už každého z nás pohlcují emoce a hlavou proudí myšlenky úspěchu,protože těch pár desítek metrů už víme,že dáme. Najednou , v pondělí 27.6. v 11:15 , tam stojíme a už není kam výš jít ( 4810 mnm ).Jsme šťastní.Objímáme s pozdravem Goutieeeeer.Mucha po neskutečném výkonu z předešlého dne a po prvním neúspěšném pokusu před x lety , se dočkal zúčtování.Buřič po prvním vyčerpávajícím dnu a po Matterhornu získal i skalp nejvyšší hory Evropy.A mě potkalo to štěstí,že ač jsem doposud nebyl na žádné hoře nad tři tisíce metrů, mám tu možnost stát vedle těchto kluků na střeše našeho kontinentu.Klekám si a děkuji za tuto příležitost.Děláme pár fotek,protože vítr je opravdu silný a po obkroužení helikoptéry jdeme dolů.Nemáme stále vyhráno.Zajíci se počítají až po honu. Cestou dolů jsme stále opatrní, i když plní emocí a euforie.Ovšem jde to docela rychle.Až na jeden hřebínek,kde stopy jsou zaváté ,nemáme problém.Jen musíme stále pravidelně odpočívat.Vidíme Vallotku a dáme opět pauzu.Po krátké chvilce jdeme zase do svahu.Jakýkoliv kopeček nám dělá potíže.Myšlenka na sestup ještě dnes na TR je nereálná.Když stojíme na sjezdovce,vidíme chatu Gouter,ale ty poslední stovky metrů se neskutečně vlečou.Na hřebíncích mám pocit,že chodíme v kruhu.Nakonec v 15:15 sundáváme výstroj v botárně chaty a těšíme se na gábl.Personál nás opět vítá a kroutí hlavou,co tam zase děláme.Stávají se z nás štamgasti.V pře­plněné chatě se rozhodneme přenocovat.Ten­tokrát je vyjednávání u nerezervovaných místech náročnější.Lidé platí i za přespání na schodech,nebo v botárně.My po pěti hodinách a rafinovaně objednané večeři dostáváme luxusní lůžko za 80euro na každého.Jsou to zkrátka obchodníci ,ale ve štychu nás nenechali.Myslím, že to bylo zrovna za tu naší vůli se s tím kopcem porvat.Takže jsme si dali opět vínko a s vědomím,že už nemusíme spěchat,vyprávíme si o našich dojmech.Do postelí jdeme kolem 22 h.Rád bych usnul,ale noční můra v podobě kuloáru ,mi měla nachystat ještě jednu horkou a hlavně reálnou chvilku.Nespal jsem.

Gouter – Tete Rousse – Les Houches Úterý, 28.6. kolem osmé hodiny ranní házíme batohy na záda a míříme směrem k Teterce.Opět máme potíž rozhýbat tělo.Přece jen jsme tu již šestý den.V hlavě mám myšlenky směrem ke kuloáru.Kupodivu stěnu scházíme velice rychle, ač se vyhýbáme spoustě lidem, kteří čekají na svůj životní zážitek.Asi po hodince a půl jsme u kuloáru,kde nás zezadu tlačí polská skupinka.Čekáme až přejde trojka nadšenců.Jeden z nich je jištěn lanem.První jde opět Buřič.Vidím,že se žlab opět změnil a stěna jako kdyby byla vyšší.Buřič jde opět stylem ledovcového lezení,takže cepín nezabodává z vrchu rukojetí do střechy schodu,ale ostrou špicí přímo do ledu.Mačky zakopává předními hroty a je nahoře.Mucha na chvíli uprostřed žlabu zastaví a potom stejným stylem vyšplhá na schod.Já mezitím sledoval stav celého kuloáru zda nepadá kamení.Docházím doprostřed vzniklého koryta a koukám,že je širší než včera.Navíc velký kámen,který teď slouží jako mezi článek obou chodníčků je namrzlý.Zkouším opěrnou levou nohou zapíchnout mačku ,ale nedaří se mi to.Sedím na kameni dost nejistě,pravou rukou se snažím najít aspoň malinkou hranu na kameni,kde bych se mohl zapřít,ale všude jen námraza.Vůbec nevnímám jestli něco padá.Na vteřinu mi jde hlavou , že tohle je docela průser.Jakmile vstanu,jedu dolů.Mucha mě povzbuzuje ,ale slyším ho z dálky , ač stojí kousek ode mě.Přece si dcera nebude prohlížet fotky bez táty.I to se honí hlavou v tomto okamžiku.Nějak jsem se sebral a zkouším nakopnout mačku.Už to riskuji a odrážím se s tím, že velkou silou zarážím cepín do ledového schodu.Mám štěstí a opět oceňuji tento nástroj.Třemi nákopy jsem nad schodem a v tu chvíli vím, že až teď mám to nejhorší za sebou.Až teď do mě jdou emoce ,které někdo zažívá na vrcholu.Já to mám jinak.Docházíme na Teterku, fotíme se u velkého plakátu vrcholu Mont Blancu.Balíme­.Loučíme se s personálem .Cesta skálou,která byla první den zcela pod sněhem, jdeme převážně po kamenech bez maček,ale krátké úseky kde leží zbytky sněhu nás stále drží v pohotovosti.Mucha tady zažívá taky své chvilky, dost mu to klouže.Je rád,že jsme na úpatí skály.Potom už jen bobová dráha , což bylo zpříjemnění a hlavně zrychlení sestupu a ve 14:45 vyhlížíme konečně šalinu.Ještě předtím nabírá Mucha do termosky ze skalního pramene chladnou osvěžující vodu.Do šaliny se zařazujeme mezi seniory,kteří si vyjeli na kafíčko na terásku konečné stanice této zubačky. Cestou dolů lanovkou si přehrávám všechny chvíle a emoce se mnou cloumají.Konečně vidíme auto a za hodinku vyjíždíme domů.V autě pouštíme staré pecky a zejména na Elány zpíváme a tančíme.Za 14 h vystupuji před domem.V tuhle chvíli jsem šťastnej chlap na této zemi,ale za pár hodin už střádám plány na další cestu,protože můj seznam je ještě dlouhý.

Závěr Ještě před dvěma roky jsem ani nepomyslel,že bych mohl uskutečnit tak velkou věc.Není to jen o touze,ale poznání co hory nabízí.Velkou inspirací byla kniha Eda Viesturse – Na vrchol žádné zkratky nevedou.K našemu výstupu, ať se na to dívá kdo chce jak chce,nepovažuji výstup na Mont Blanc za turistický výlet.Je veliký rozdíl jít v rozběhnutém létě,nebo jako my, v období ,kdy ještě sněží.Navíc způsobem, který jsem tady popsal.Příprava a parta, to jsou věci, na které člověk musí spolehnout.Jsem moc rád,že jsem jel s klukama , kterým jsem věřil a nezklamali.Ve spoustě těžkých rozhodnutích jsme se shodli a to také potvrzuje,že máte kolem sebe ty správné lidi.A takové v horách zkrátka mít musíte. Mucho a Buřiči, díky že jsem tuhle akci absolvoval právě s vámi a těším se na další výzvu. Goutieeeeeeeer  Bari

Technické údaje : 1.Den – lanovka Les Houches ( 1010 m ) – Bellevue ( 1794 m ) , tramway Bellevue – Nid D´Aigle ( 2327 m ) , trek Nid D´Aigle – Tete Rousse ( 3167 m ) – 3 hodiny 2.Den – Tete Rousse – Gouter ( 3835 m ) – lezení 3 hodiny 3.Den – Gouter – Tete Rousse – tři hodiny 4.Den – Tete Rousse – Gouter – tři hodiny 5.Den – Gouter – Mont Blanc – 6 hodin , Mont Blanc – Gouter – 4 hodiny 6.Den – Gouter-Tete Rousse – 2 a půl hodiny,Tete Rousse – Nid D´Aigle – 1 a půl hodiny

Ceny : Ubytování – Tete Rousse 28 euro ( sleva OAV ) , Gouter 55 – 80 euro bez slevy Občerstvení – polévka želví 10 , pivo 5 , cola 5, voda 1,5 l – 5,5 , omeleta 12 , večeře 30. Lanovka – tramway – zpáteční 40 euro, bez slevy

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