Severské dobrodružství - NP Sarek
O Sareku jsme toho nevěděli mnoho. Věděli jsme, že je to jedna z posledních divočin v Evropě, hodně daleko ve Švédsku, neexistují tam turistické cesty, počasí je nestálé a při plánování cesty je dobré brát v potaz pár mostů, které vedou přes větší ledovcové řeky. Na internetu jsme však našli několik cestopisů, podle kterých jsme trasu nějak naplánovali s tím, že by nám neměla zabrat více než 10 dnů. S autobusy nám přes email pomohli z turistického centra v Jokkmokku, ono to nebylo tak těžké, neboť jich tolik nejezdí.
Na cestu jsme si rozhodli půjčit dodávku, neboť v pěti s batohy bychom se asi do žádného jiného auta nedostali. Původně domluvená dodávka doporučená kamarádem nám připravila trochu horké chvilky před odjezdem, kdy nám přestal její majitel před odjezdem brát telefony. Naštěstí se nám podařilo na poslední chvíli sehnat jinou.
Do Rostoku, kde jsme se měli nalodit na trajekt do Dánska (Gedser), jsme vyráželi s 5-ti hodinovou časovou zálohou, což se ukázalo jako dobrá volba, neboť díky zácpám na Německých dálnicích jsme nakonec museli trochu šlapat na plyn, abychom dorazili včas.
Dalším zpestřením cesty bylo, když po desáté večer navigace zahlásila: “A nyní se naloďte na trajekt.” V navigaci jsme totiž zapomněli vypnout možnost použití trajektu. Naštěstí jsme stihli poslední trajekt, který ten den jel a nemuseli čekat až do rána.
Ve Švédsku nás čekali nekonečně dlouhé rovné dálnice s maximální rychlostí 110km/hod a spoustou radarů. Největší problém tak byly křeče z držení nohy na plynu.
Na polárním kruhu © Peter Majerčák
Po 2500 km jsme se však druhého dne odpoledne konečně dostali na hranici označující severní polární kruh a do našeho cíle- Jokkmokku to pak už bylo jen pár kilometrů. Našli jsme autobusové nádraží, parkoviště hned vedle něj jsme shledali vhodným pro to, tam nechat auto po dobu našeho výletu, prošli jsme trochu městečko a rozhodli se vrátit zpátky k odpočívadlu u polárního kruhu s tím, že tam přespíme. V lese u něj nás čekala první zkušenost s tajgou. Spoustu borůvek a hub všude kolem, ale také spousta komárů. Poprvé jsme tak vyzkoušeli moskytiéry a repelenty s vysokým obsahem DTD.
Druhý den jsme na vyhlédnutém místě zanechali auto a autobusem zamířili do poslední výspy civilizace přes pustinou Sareku- Kvikkjokku. Autobusy v těchto končinách slouží i k zásobování, takže jsme byli svědky nakládky zboží před odjezdem. Řidič uměl velmi slušně anglicky a při pauze si s námi povídal. Prý nejlepší doba na návštěvu tohoto kraje je jaro, kdy je tam hezké počasí a ještě spousta sněhu, takže oblíbenou kratochvílí jsou vyjížďky na sněžných skútrech a večerní saunování. Cena jízdy nás však trochu překvapila a prakticky jsme za ní utratili všechny švédské koruny, které jsme měli u sebe. Nepočítali jsme totiž, že bychom nějak víc peníze potřebovali. Bylo to kolem 28 švédských korun. V autobuse se ale případně dalo platit kartou.
Komáři © Peter Majerčák
Z Kvikkjokku jsme šli zpočátku po jednom z nejznámějších švédských treků- Královské stezce (Kungsleden), takže cesta byla zřejmá a rychle ubíhala. Za mostkem jsme odbočili trochu špatně, takže jsme se poprvé potkali s pravým švédským rašeliništěm. Naštěstí jsme brzy zase našli správnou stezku, která močály překonávala s pomocí dřevěných lávek. Zaujali nás oranžové plody podobné ostružinám rostoucí na nízkých stoncích. Později jsme zjistili, že to byly cloudberries (ostružiník moruška). Cesta se zvolna klikatila jezerní náhorní plošinou a až ke konci jsme trochu vystoupali. Utábořili jsme se nedaleko chatek Pareku. Večer nás řádně potrápili komáři, zvlášť při koupeli v potoku jsme museli být hodně rychlí a pořádně se ohánět ručníky kolem sebe, abychom ty potvory udrželi od sebe.
Konečně v Sareku © Peter Majerčák
Dalšího dne hned po ránu si dal Petr nedobrovolnou koupel, když uklouzl na kameni a vymáchal se v potoce. Vyzkoušeli jsme si přebrodit pár potoků stékajících za zasněžených úbočí masivu Boarektjahkaa, který jsme potřebovali natraverzovat, abychom se dostali přes sedlo do dalšího údolí. Vystoupali jsme už dostatečně vysoko, takže pod námi jak na dlani ležela jezerní plošina, kterou jsme procházeli předchozí den a otevírali se výhledy na vrcholky kolem nás. Měli jsme radost, když jsme potkali soby. To jsme ještě nevěděli, že je jich v Sareku tolik, že nám to za pár dní ani nepřijde.
Ze sedla jsme sešli po velkém sněhovém poli, po kterém šla cesta výrazně rychleji, než po kamenitém svahu. Sestoupili jsme do širokého údolí, kde jsme po mostě překonali ledovcovou říčku Gadokjahka, které se v tom místě dravě valila úzkou skalní průrvou dál dolů. V protějším svahu stejnojmenného kopce jsme našli místo na malé plošině místo k postavení stanů a protože hodně profukovalo, postavili jsme kolem stanů menší větrolam z kamenů.
Při večeři se nám naskytl fantastický pohled na duhu překlenující celé údolí, která spolu s výhružnou černí valících se dešťových mraků a zelení strání osvětlených paprsky slunce pronikajícího šedivými závěsy přeháněk, dokonale dokreslovala atmosféru večera v divočině.
Duha © Peter Majerčák
Trochu odpočatí jsme si večer ještě udělali procházku a těsně před tím, než zapadlo slunce jsme měli možnost obdivovat údajně jeden z nejhezčích výhledů na světě (útes Skierfe a ústí Rapadalen) byť z druhé strany.
Rapadalen a Skierffe © Peter Majerčák
Po probuzení druhého dne bylo jasné, že se chystá změna počasí. Vrcholky kolem byly zahalené do mraků a svižný větřík profukoval stany. Na rozcvičku jsme si dali pěkných pár výškových metrů, přehoupli jsme se přes hřbítek a snažili jsme se nějak dostat k jezeru pod nástup na sedlo, přes které jsme se rozhodli překročit další masiv. Každý zvolil jiný přístup. Já s Kamilem jsme šli kolem koryta říčky, kluci zvolili kamenitý svah. Výstup na sedlo byl celkem náročný. Jít suťoviskem se ukázalo jako nebezpečné, neboť kameny byly nestabilní a mimo vlastní zranění způsobené neopatrným krokem, či uklouznutím po viklajícím se kameni, ještě více hrozilo, že nějaký šutr uvolníme na kluky pod námi. Lepší varianta bylo pravé sněhové pole, které nebylo tak strmé a zledovatělé jako to levé. Aby toho nebylo málo, tak začalo poprchat.
Pohled na ledovec © Peter Majerčák
Výstupem do sedla jsme si moc nepomohli, neboť nás čekal prudký a náročný sestup. Zprvu to šlo po sněhovém poli, ale to pak prudce padalo a navíc pod ním zurčel potok vody a bylo nebezpečí, že je podemleté. Museli jsme tak sestupovat po hřbítku, kudy vedla cestička vyšlapaná soby. Ta nám pomohla i při traverzu velmi prudkého kopce v závěru údolí, kde původní potok nabral na síle a padal jako vodopád, aby se přehnal kaňonem a spojil se s další ledovcovou řekou. Za prodělanou námahu jsme však byli odměněni krásnými výhledy na okolní kopce, ze kterých se z mraků vynořovaly ledovce a v zeleni utopené údolí pod námi.
Zelené srdce Sareku © Peter Majerčák
Ledovcová říčka nám dala při brodění zabrat, neboť v místě brodu bylo více vody, než jsme čekali a tak voda šla v některých případech i přes okraj holinek. Potkali jsme velké stádo sobů, které jsme vyplašili tak, že nám předvedli svou schopnost plavat. Netušili jsme, že to umí tak dobře. Ve svahu nad námi jsme dokonce zahlédli rodinku losů. Míst na postavení stanů bylo opět málo, ale nakonec jsme našli malou loučku.
A nezaprší a nezaprší © Peter Majerčák
Po předchozím náročném dnu jsme doufali, že ten následující bude snazší, měl se však ukázat, že tomu bude právě naopak. Mrholení z předchozího dne v noci zesílilo na regulérní déšť a tak už od začátku jsme se rozhodli jít v holinkách. Prodírali jsme se pralesem podél řeky. Cestou nás sledoval velký samotářský sob. U ústí do Rapadalenu jsme našli uzamčenou loveckou chatku a pokračovali proti proudu řeky Rahpa. Když se dalo jít po naplaveninách, tak se šlo dobře a rychle. Bohužel to bylo možné jen občas. Většinu času jsme se museli po sobích stezkách, prodírat bažinami a něčím, co začnete v severské divočině brzo nenávidět- vrbičkami. V tundře totiž není kleč, ale malé, zakrslé vrbičky, které jsou velmi těžko prostupné a probírat se jimi je velmi náročné. Vrbičky, méně husté vrbičky, hodně husté vrbičky, vrbičky, kousek po naplaveninách a zase vrbičky. Voda ze shora, zboku, zespodu. V tom se nesl celý den. Chtěli jsme dojít až k nouzovému přístřešku v horách u dalšího mostu, ale už jsme byli unavení, takže jsme se rozhodli postavit stan na malé plošině pod skalní stěnou. Atmosféra byla o to víc stísněná, že o kus dál jsme našli mršinu soba.
V údolí Rapadalen © Peter Majerčák
V noci byla pekelná zima. Ráno jsme navíc zjistili, že naše stany stojí na vodě. Večer jsme si totiž sice všimli, že na náš plácek ústí korýtko, ale říkali jsme si, že po tom, co už dva dny v kuse prší, tak pokud by jím měla téct voda, tak už poteče. Omyl. V noci déšť ještě zesílil, korýtkem začal téct potůček, kterému v cestě stály naše stany. Navíc jsme se začali bát, aby se řeka ještě víc nerozvodnila, protože jsme ji museli překročit, jinak by nás v horách odřízla. Brzo ráno jsme tedy vyrazili opět na pochod. Pod vodopády jsme naštěstí našli místo k překročení a vystoupali k nouzovému přístřešku, jehož obyvatelstvo ještě pochopitelně spalo. Aspoň ale vzali dovnitř Tomáše, který byl promrzlý, neboť si jako jediný z nás nevzal gumáky a po předchozím dni měl pohorky úplně promočené. Nakonec jsme se tam vmáčkli všichni.
Potkali jsme tam 3 švédské medičky a dva Švýcary. Borci brzy vyrazili dál, holky s k tomu moc neměly, což nám ale příliš nevadilo. Když se ale nakonec balily, tak zjistily, že nemají části k jejich stanu. Pravděpodobně si je vyměnily buď se Švýcary nebo dvěma Švédy, kteří si také nechávali věci na noc v přístřešku. Holky z toho byly špatné. Nakonec jsme vymysleli, že jim dáme jeden náš stan pro tři, vezmeme si ten jeden jejich nepoužitelný na věci a nějak to doklepeme tak, že budeme spát 4 ve stanu pro 3. Byly nám hrozně vděčné a prý si dají naše fotky nad postele:).
Po zbytek dne jsme se nějak sušili a jedli. K večeru se stavil švédský pár, ale dovnitř nechtěl. Švédové jsou borci zvyklí na rozmary počasí. Chodí si v tom jejich oblečení s lištičkou ve znaku a vypadají, že jsou jim zima a déšť lhostejní. Holky taky po ránu pobíhaly po chatce jen v termoprádle a bosky s namalovanými nehtíky a my jsme se tam choulili v Gore-texu…
Nouzový přístřešek © Peter Majerčák
Každopádně jsme šli brzo spát. Ráno nás však zjistili nemilé překvapení a to, že nás někdo zvenku zavřel na petlici. Bušení nepomáhalo. Z malého okýnka jsme však viděli venku stan. Problematické to však bylo z trochu jiného důvodu a to, že po ránu jsou potřeba udělat jisté činnosti. Zachránily nás prázdné flašky povalující se po přístřešku. Nasnídali jsme se, uplynula hodina, pak druhá a do dosti nezáviděnihodné situace se dostal Jiří, který stál se skříženýma nohama u dveří s tím, že už to déle nevydrží. Nakonec jsme se dobouchali pomoci. Přišla nám otevřít starší Švédka, která nám tvrdila, že v tom přístřešku se nesmí přespávat. To jsme se nikde nedočetli, navíc v Alpách se ve winterraumech přespávat smí a považovali to za stejnou situaci. Kluci tu čarodějnici chtěli svrhnout do blízkých peřejí, ale nakonec si to rozmysleli.
Horní část Rapadalen © Peter Majerčák
Po třech dnech deště se konečně vyčasilo a otevřely se nádherné výhledy na panoramata hor kolem. Byly vidět ledovce na vrcholcích a krása byla ještě umocněná tím, že hřebeny byly pocukrovány čerstvě napadeným sněhem.
Konečně hezky © Peter Majerčák
Na závěr se nám otevřel pohled na poslední část cesty, kterou jsem nazval Mordor, neboť ten mi připomínala kamenitá rovina s výraznou špicí uprostřed.
Mordor © Peter Majerčák
Noc jsme strávili u posledního mostu, který jsme měli na této cestě překročit. Ráno jsme se rozloučili se Sarekem a poměrně nudným putováním pod spalujícím sluncem jsme překonali rovinu Mordoru. Pak už nás čekal jen strmý sestup cestou necestou k údolní nádrži pod jejíž hrází jsme přečkali poslední noc v divočině.
Opouštíme Sarek © Peter Majerčák
Ráno nás čekala jen krátká etapa do Suorvy k zastávce autobusu do Porjusu. Čekali jsme, že zaplatíme kartami, ale terminál byl pokažený, takže jsme se s řidičem domluvili, že vybereme, až se dostaneme do civilizace. V okolí zastávky ale žádný bankomat nebyl. Jaké bylo naše překvapení, když řidič na náš dotaz, co máme dělat, jen mávl rukou, že to máme nechat být.
Ještě jeden pohled na Sarek © Peter Majerčák
Každému tak ušetřil přes 1000 českých korun. Kluci se v Porjusu přejedli v místním hotelu. Tvrdili, že lepší jídlo v životě neměli. Do Kvikkjokku jsme se dostali dalším autobusem. Auto jsme našli v pořádku, zašli nakoupit nějaké suvenýry a vyrazili jsme na zpáteční cestu. Brzo nad ránem dalšího dne jsme si prohlédli univerzitní město Uppsala. Nevynechali jsme ani Stockholm a po mostě jsme přejeli do Dánska, kde jsme se stavili v Kodani.
Nad Suorvou © Peter Majerčák
Kousek za ní nám odpadl výfuk, takže jsme se zdrželi jeho provizorním uchycením, ale jinak cesta proběhla bez problémů.
Sarek je krásný kus přírody, pokud máte rádi drsný sever.
Podivné názvy míst nejsou ze švédštiny, ale z jazyka původních obyvatel- Sanů.
Nesmí vám vadit voda ze všech směrů a komáři. My jsme měli štěstí na počasí, takže jsme zažili i slunečné dny a naopak v kritických místech díky dešti či větru komáři nezlobily. Určitě je vhodné si s sebou vzít moskytiéru a repelent s vysokým obsahem účinné látky. Kluci měli kolem 50% a nebyl až tak účinný. Já měl 90% a sice to byla víceméně žíravina, ale fungovala. Jen pozor na oblečení, zvlášť to membránové.
Je sice zvláštní s sebou táhnout gumáky a před odjezdem jsme kolem toho vedli dlouhé diskuze, ale vřele je doporučuji. K brodění a při deštivých dnech jsou velmi vhodné. Nejsou těžké a ač jsme mysleli, že v nich nemůžeme jít celý den, nakonec se to ukázalo bezproblémové.
Nejen při brodění jsou také kvůli rovnováze vhodné tyčky. A věřte, že brodit budete hodně často. Cesta je dlouhá, ale zpestří ji cesta trajektem a možné zastávky u moře, které je ale dost studené. I města po cestě určitě stojí za shlédnutí. Cesta po obřím mostu je taky zážitek.
S pitnou vodou není problém, vhodných potůčků je všude kolem dost. Já jsem používal k desinfekci Sanosil, ale kluci to zvládli bez něj.
Jídlo je potřeba nést na celý trek. Pokud byste chtěli nějakou inspiraci, tak každý si musí najít, co mu vyhovuje. Jirka razí teorii, že jeho tělo musí dostávat to, co spotřebuje, takže s sebou nesl Express Menu, které je sice výborné, ale pěkně se prohýbal pod tíhou batohu. Obecně na snídani jsou dobré ovesné kaše a nést si s sebou oříšky a sušené ovoce na dochucení. Ve Švédsku si do nich můžete v nižších polohách nasbírat borůvky. V Sareku s tím však nepočítejte.
Na oběd my většinou nevaříme a jíme chleba s něčím. Chleba zabalený do utěrky vydrží velmi dlouho. Na večeři se to snažíme různě kombinovat. Sušené těstoviny nejdou jíst 10 dní v kuse. Super je bramborová kaše v pytlíku a kuskus, který je velmi lehký, kompaktní, hodně nabobtná a je velmi rychle uvařený. Já mám rád i čínské polévky, protože se z nich rychle zasytím a pak v klidu uvařím zbytek.
Mobilní signál nečekejte. Jirka měl možnost s sebou půjčit satelitní telefon a i s tím jsme dva dny nechytili signál, když jsme se prodírali hlubokým údolím Rapadalenu.
Některé pumpy jsou samoobslužné a dovolí nabrat jen do určitého maxima peněz.
Někomu můžu darovat mapu Sareku. Kdyžtak si o ni napište;).
GPS:
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- http://connect.garmin.com/…ty/348421299
- http://connect.garmin.com/…ty/348421336
- http://connect.garmin.com/…ty/348421379
- http://connect.garmin.com/…ty/348421477
- http://connect.garmin.com/…ty/348421522
- http://connect.garmin.com/…ty/348421546
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