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Via ferrata, aneb když pěší stezky nestačí - I.díl

3.November 2011
Velikost písma: A A A Tisk Autor: Tomáš Kuthan
Via ferrata, zajištěná cesta nebo také klettersteig - to jsou různé názvy pro jedno a to samé. Náročné turistické cesty zajištěné ocelovými lany a žebříky, tak jak je známe dnes, nevznikly jako rozmar náročných turistů.
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Čím dál populárnější trasy označované jako via ferrata či klettersteig jsou zajištěné cesty v horském terénu. Tyto horské cesty jsou vybavené jistícími ocelovými lany, stupačkami, žebříky nebo dalšími pomůckami pro snadnější zdolání obtížných úseků. Cílem zajištěných cest je zpřístupnění náročnějšího terénu i turistům, kteří nemají zkušenosti s horolezeckými výstupy. Ferraty vyžadují speciální vybavení, kterému se budeme věnovat v další části tohoto miniseriálu.

Z historie

Někdy v 19. století si vídeňští horolezci řekli, že by rádi vylepšili schůdnost některých náročných úseků v jejich domácích horách a začali k tomu používat drátěná lana, skoby a jiné pomůcky. Takto upravené cesty zejména v pohoří Rax a Hohen Wand proto můžeme považovat za předchůdce moderních zajištěných cest, tak jak je známe dnes.

Během 19. a na přelomu 20. století pak začínají vznikat některé zajištěné cesty, které známe ještě dnes. Například již v roce 1843 se objevují první železné díly na Dachsteinu a následně vznikají například dobře známé cesty jako Hilbronner Weg v Algä nebo Eggersteig v Kaisergebirge.

Klasické via ferraty jsou známé především z oblasti italských dolomit, kde vznikali v době světových válek a sloužili vojákům k rychlejšímu a bezpečnějšímu pohybu po horách. Ferraty vedou převážně po přirozených liniích a horských chodnících. Zajištěné cesty již ale nejsou jen doménou italských Dolomit. S narůstající oblibou se zajištěné cesty budují i v ostatních částech Alp. Zejména Rakousko nabízí spousty nových cest a každým rokem jich přibývají desítky. Současný trend nových „klettersteigů“ je dělat stále těžší a exponovanější ces­ty.

Obtížnost zajištěných cest

V průvodcích se můžeme setkat s různým značením obtížnosti. Zejména ve starších průvodcích se používá třístupňové značení obtížnosti. Tento způsob je shodný se značením obtížnosti např. sjezdovek a používají se tři barvy: modrá, červená a černá. Barevné ohodnocení bývá ještě zpravidla doplněno slovním komentářem.

modrá lehká, pro turisty s menšími zkušenostmi
červená těžká, pro zkušené vysokohorské turisty
černá zvláště těžká, nutná znalost horolezeckých technik

V současné době používanější hodnocení je jemnější a používá 5 stupňů. Narazit tak můžeme na ferraty obtížnosti A, B, C, D a E nebo I, II, III, IV a V. Pokud bychom toto hodnocení chtěli převést do srozumitelnější formy, pak bychom použili označení lehká, mírně obtížná, těžká, velmi těžká, extrémně těžká.

Pro lepší pochopení obtížnosti i v případě pětistupňového hodnocení zde může být podrobnější slovní popis či informace o stupni horolezecké obtížnosti, kterému by daný terén odpovídal v případě, že by na něm nebyly umístěny zajišťující prvky.

A odpovídá modré barvě, bez zajištění by se jednalo o I. stupeň horolezecké obtížnosti
B odpovídá modré barvě, mirně obtížná, mírně strmá, bez zajištění by se jednalo o I. nebo II. stupeň horolezecké obtížnosti
C odpovídá červené barvě, těžké, strmé a místy kolmé úseky, bez zajištění odpovídá II. – III. stupni horolezecké obtížnosti
D odpovídá černé barvě, velmi těžká, velmi strmé úseky, místy značně exponované, odpovídá III. – IV. stupni horolezecké obtížnosti
E odpovídá černé barvě, extrémně těžká, vyžaduje použití horolezeckých technik a velké síly v pažích

Toto hodnocení obtížnosti platí ovšem za klimatických podmínek, které jsou pro danou oblast normální. Pokud dojde ke zhoršení počasí, tak se i sebelehčí trasa může proměnit v životu nebezpečné místo.

V současné době se můžeme setkat i s obtížností F či G, ale s těmito úrovněmi vás prozatím nebudu zatěžovat a vrátíme se k nim později.

Druhým faktorem, který se může podepsat na reálné obtížnosti zajištěné cesty, je její délka, délka přístupové cesty k samotné ferratě a cesta zpět. Proto nikdy nepřeceňujte své síly a nepodceňujte dostatečné jištění.

V dalším pokračování článku a zajištěných cestách se dozvíte o potřebném vybavení.

Chcete-li poznat krásy Alp z míst, které jsou pro vás do dnešní doby nepřístupné, najděte si v naší databázi jednoduchou zajištěnou cestu a se zkušenějšími kamarády můžete vyrazit.

Pokud takové kamarády nemáte, zkuste navštívit naše diskuzní fórum a ostatní vám určitě rádi poradí a pomohou.

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